Black Hills Journal

The delights of Spearfish Canyon

2011-11-12T00:08:00.001-07:00

As we enjoyed this leisurely Veteran's Day weekend, we were reminded of the many blessings that have befallen us -- in no small way the result of sacrifices made by men and women of our U.S. military over the years.

And we also took time to enjoy this little part of heaven called the Black Hills.

We often strike out to explore new and different areas of the Hills, but we keep coming back to one of our favorite places -- Spearfish Canyon. After all, it's nestled right in our own back yard and offers marvelous scenery throughout the year. We've peddled up the canyon several times to get an "up close and personal" view; but more often we drive the canyon, stopping here and there to enjoy the beauty it offers.

On our most recent trek -- in late October -- we took our camera along and captured a bit of video in Spearfish Canyon which we've posted in the right hand column of Black Hills Journal. Click on the movie link and enjoy the ride!

The other video on the right is a short sampler of a program called Over South Dakota. It's a breathtaking High Definition aerial tour of South Dakota, scheduled to be broadcast on South Dakota Public Television in March of 2012. We're told by Fritz Miller at SDPB that the aerial work was done by an outfit named Skyworks, and it'll be well worth watching for it next spring!

Major league sluggers played in Deadwood

2011-10-30T20:03:00.000-06:00

Babe Ruth excited Deadwood fans
...but local reporter was unimpressed

by Larry Miller

Babe Ruth played in Deadwood in 1922

The 1920’s hadn’t quite begun to “roar” yet, and the devastating dust bowl of the 1930’s was still a decade away. Baseball had become the national pastime, and for residents of the northern Black Hills, it didn’t get any better than a fall day in 1922 when the legendary Babe Ruth came to Deadwood as part of a nationwide “barnstorming” tour with Yankee teammate Bob Meusel.

Although Ruth had begun to ascend as a baseball star by 1921, it was an unusual season — his second year with the New York Yankees, and he blasted 59 home runs that season, helping the Yankees to win the American League pennant and face cross-town rival the New York Giants in the World Series. Ruth was injured in the second game of the series, however, hampering his performance for the remaining games. The Giants won the series.

It wasn’t long before Ruth was on the road in a “barnstorming” tour, which was a violation of the rules for world series players. Commissioner Kenesaw Mountain Landis suspended Ruth for the first six weeks of the 1922 season. Although he batted .315 that short season, it was rather a disappointing one for the Babe. It ended with yet another lost world series – again to the New York Giants.

The Deadwood Daily Pioneer-Times
printed this image of Mrs. Ruth, who
apparently was not with "the Babe."

We don’t know if Ruth was suspended for his 1922 encore barnstorming tour, but he surely delighted folks in western South Dakota when he and Meusel appeared for the seventh in a series of exhibition games across the west one day in late October. He and Meusel journeyed by train from Sioux City, Iowa, to Norfolk, Nebraska, and then on to Sturgis. There, they were greeted by an entourage of Deadwood businessmen who drove the big leaguers by automobile over the “Boulder Park Highway” to Deadwood.

The Deadwood Daily Pioneer-Times, in its October 19, 1922 edition, reported their arrival in great detail. “In honor of the event, practically all of the Deadwood business houses will be closed, most of the Black Hills will declare a holiday; the local schools and the Spearfish Normal will be closed this afternoon, and a general holiday will be in effect during the time of the game this afternoon between the hours of 2 to 4 o’clock.” Ruth and Meusel were “entertained at a luncheon” and then transported to the Amusement Park for the game.

An advertisement in the paper encouraged readers to “See Babe Ruth and Bob Meusel, American League World Series Stars, hit a home run in an exhibition baseball game at Deadwood Amusement Park today.” Ruth was selected to play with the Deadwood team, which had just won the 1922 Black Hills League championship, while Meusel played for the Black Hills All-Stars, a group of players from the other five teams in the league, Lead, Spearfish, Sturgis, Rapid City, and Aladdin. Both Ruth and Meusel would play first base. By all accounts, it was a good game, but the big league sluggers provided no home runs.

The newspaper reporter who covered the event seemed not terribly impressed by the two Yankees. “The high altitude or the background may have affected the sluggers. At any rate, those who saw yesterday’s contest saw nothing that should cause thirty-five thousand New York fans to stand in line from daylight in the morning until two o’clock in the afternoon to secure a ticket, permitting them to see these fellows perform,” he wrote. Meusel was an unimpressive one for four at the plate for the day, while Ruth was two for three. But it was the bottom of the seventh inning that seemed to especially delight the reporter.

Teammates Bob Meusel, Lou Gehrig and
Babe Ruth pose for this undated photograph.

“It seemed that he (Ruth) really did try this time to knock one over the mountain, but the balls had a tendency to cross the mountain at his rear instead of traveling toward the outfield hillside. Here it was that the fans, realizing that this would probably be his last time at bat, were in a state of great expectancy. The big “Bam” gripped his 48 ounce bat with a firm grip and prepared to do things. After two balls had been called, he fouled one and then let the third ball pass him. On the next one, he slashed mightily at the crack of his bat as it met the white horsehide sphere, resounding throughout the park but the ball went for a foul, number two. Six more fouls followed in quick succession, some of them going over the grandstand, some of them into the grandstand, and some of them out over the line of cars, but none over the outfield fence or even close to it. Finally after sending eight foul balls into the air, causing a happy uprising of merry yells which died out almost as quickly as they arose, he managed to hit a Texas-leaguer over second base for a trip to the second sack where he was left when the side was retired.”

Ruth and the Deadwood team prevailed over Meusel and the All-Stars, 4-2. And while there were no dramatic homeruns by anyone, everyone seemed to have a good time. The Pioneer-Times writer finally offered that “…It may be that the local pitchers, Gorum and Gill for the Deadwood team and Meade and Hedje for the All-Stars are not as back-woods in their ball playing as might be supposed by two star homerun hitters who have played before audiences 34 or 40 times as large as the one yesterday.”

After the game, Ruth and Meusel boarded the Northwestern passenger train headed south to Scottsbluff, Nebraska, for yet another exhibition game – and no doubt more thrills for local fans. Maybe even a home run for the Babe, which he was denied in Deadwood that fateful day in 1922.

Postscript: A 16-page card booklet was published for the special day that Meusel and Ruth played ball in Deadwood. Perhaps one of these rare booklets still exists somewhere? Please take time to drop us an e-mail if you know where such a booklet might be located.

2011 Moon Walks conclude at Gold Mountain Mine

2011-09-13T17:23:00.000-06:00

For a few of the 150 people who wandered up a hill aboutfour miles northwest of Hill City last Saturday evening (9/10/11), it was anopportunity to see just how much has been completed in the restoration andpreservation work at an old gold mine. They had visited the site a few years ago on an earlier "Moon Walk" sponsored by the Black Hills National Forest. The Gold Mountain Mine was built long after the first rush for gold inthe hills, but it’s likely to grow in popularity in coming years.

The mill frame and boiler building of the old mine were thefocus of the final Black Hills National Forest Moon Walk 2011 series,completing another season of diverse and educational treks through variousparts of the Black Hills.

Amy Ballard, Recreational Forester with the U.S. ForestService has been coordinating the popular hiking series, which began in 1996and has accommodated more than 12,500 participants in some 121 programs.

It was encore time for Forest Service archaeologist MichaelSalisbury, who has served as project manager on the Gold Mountain Mine effort,a coordinated effort between the Black Hill Historic Preservation Trust, theU.S. Forest Service, and a bevy of volunteers who’ve donated their time andtalent to the project.

Construction on the original mine started in 1924.

“They finished it sometime around 1929,” said Salisbury, “and it operated all the way up to thebeginning of World War Two, and that’s when War Order L208 was enforced and allprecious mineral mining in the United States was shut down, and all of that energywas targeted into the war effort and the manufacture of war goods.”

Like so many such operations that closed down at the onsetof the war, the Gold Mountain Mine simply never reopened (but then gold pricesweren't $1,800 an ounce either!).

In the years following, while the site was likely a populardestination for history buffs and weekend hikers, the property continued todeteriorate and became something of a safety hazard. Finally, in 2007, the old mine was scheduledfor demolition.

But through the vision and hard work of the Black Hills Historical Preservation Trust, the U.S. Forest Service, and an energetic groupof folks from the Passport in Time – who volunteered their time and manytalents – this last standing piece of Black Hillsmining history has been preserved.

Last summer, more than 30 volunteers from Passport in Time participated in two separate sessions that first concentrated on replacingmissing cross members and rehabilitating existing structural braces, whilerefurbishing the interior and exterior of the lower ore bin.

Then they rehabilitated the upper ore bin and the main roof,installed the iron “grizzly” ore separator and reconstructed the upper headhouse.

Salisbury noted that the Gold Mountain mill frame nowlooks pretty much as it did during its original period of activity before WorldWar Two, when there were as many as seven steam engines operating on the site,providing much-needed power to the mining operation.

“Thanks to the countless hours of dedication and hard workof many, Gold Mountainwill stand as a glimpse into the past of an industry that was a primary drivingforce behind the settlement of the American west,” said Salisbury. He said he expects that interpretive signage will be in place at the mine by next August, capping a very successful join endeavor.

Volunteers who worked on the project “did not disappoint,”observed Salisbury.

And the same may be said about the 2011 season of the BlackHills National Forest Moon Walks. AmyBallard and the entire U.S. Forest Service gang did a great job organizing andconducting these excellent forays into different areas and aspects of the Black Hills.

Want to know more about the 2011 Moon Walk season? You'll find narratives right here on Black Hills Journal and an abundance of photographs from the walks in our Moon Walk Gallery.

We’re already anticipating the 2012 season!

"On the Trail" with pack mules and the U.S. Forest Service

2011-08-17T15:53:00.004-06:00

We may think of mules as homely and rather ornery critters,but as participants in the latest Black Hills National (BHNF) Forest Moon Walkfound out last weekend, they’re valuable assets for workers on high mountaintrails and other remote locations. And thatincludes the U.S. Forest Service.

About 60 folks showed up at the BHNF Tepee Work Center about26 miles west of Custer for the August Moon Walk Saturday night (8/13/11), and abit of enlightenment provided by Forest Service packer Glenn Ryan, who travelsthe western national forests using his mules to accomplish back country work.

Ryan’s been doing the work for some 21 years and shows nosigns of cutting back on his wilderness adventures. And, of course, mules have been reliable pack animals for a long time. We've posted a couple of videos (right panel) illustrating their use during the Spanish-American War in Cuba.

Moon Walk coordinator Amy Ballard welcomed walkers to thewell-groomed Tepee Work Center groundsby announcing that there would be no hike this month, since some of thearchaeologists scheduled to be a part of the program had to rush off on anothermore important task: working the Coal Canyonfire some 15-20 miles to the south. Thatblaze, in the rugged range and canyon area northwest of Edgemont, claimed thelife of one firefighter while consuming nearly 5,000 acres of grass and timberin the southern Black Hills. The fire is now (8/17/11) nearly fullycontained.

Ranger Dave Pickford

Ranger Dave Pickford, who works out of the Hell Canyonranger office at Custer set the stage for this Moon Walk, providing a bit of Black Hills National Forest history, reaching backto 1892 when the forest “reserve” was created. Eight years later, the first sale of timber from a U.S. national forest took place near Nemo, South Dakota, when Homestake Mining Company was expanding itsoperation. In a sign of the times,Homestake paid a modest rate of 75 cents per thousand board feet. Today, according to Pickford, the market will fetch about $10.00 per thousand board feet!

In 1901, Deadwood resident Seth Bullock was tapped byPresident Theodore Roosevelt to serve as the first “supervisor” of U.S. forestlands. In those early years, twonational forests were created in this area: the Black Hills National Forest was in the northern Black Hills andwas headquartered in Deadwood; Harney National Forest encompassed the southern Black Hills with its headquarters in Custer. By 1954, the two forests were merged into asingle Black Hills National Forest.

Just as modern transportation has transformed the landscape ofeducation with the consolidation and closure of rural schools, it also led tothe reduction of ranger district offices in the Black Hills from 20 to just four. They're located in Custer (Hell Canyon District), Rapid City (Mystic District), Northern Hills (Spearfish), and Bear Lodge District (Sundance, Wyoming).

The site of this Moon Walk, the TepeeWork Center,was constructed in 1936-37 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which created alot of the infrastructure on public lands across the country – and certainlywithin the Black Hills. The four structures built on this site arestill in use. Pickford said that, aswith all CCC projects, three principles were followed: (1) use non-intrusive designs that blend withthe environment; (2) use pioneer/frontier construction techniques; and (3) usenative/traditional styles and materials.

City kid Glenn Ryan has found a career "on the
trail" with mules and the U.S. Forest Service.

Our “keynote” speaker for this Moon Walk seemed an unlikelyperson to end up as a packer. Glenn Ryangrew up not far from the teeming masses of Manhattanin New York. The day after earning his Associates degreein Natural Resources from Columbia College in California,he went to work for the U.S. Forest Service. According to his wife, Ryan had a few“sabbaticals” along the way, working as a cowboy, a stint with Hewlett Packard,and even some truck driving.

But his work with the Forest Service, the Bureau of LandManagement, and the National Park Service, has been the most gratifying –allowing him to be a packer.

Ryan shared a brief bit of historical insight into workingfor the Forest Service.

“In 1905, the Forest Service “let” folks provide their owntables, chairs, their own houses, wood stoves, and even their own riding stockand pack stock. The salary for a rangerwas $75 a month. If you paid more than$75 to feed your stock, you could submit a claim for repayment.”

He recounted that he had never read anywhere that thoseearly foresters actually got paid for what they submitted.

While “packing” with the ForestService still involves long hours – and “some use of our own tack and stock,”Ryan clearly enjoys what he’s doing. In fact, earlier this year, during the Big Wyoming Horse Expo in Douglas, he taught a session on how you go about training a mule to be a pack animal -- sort of a Pack Mules 101 course.

“And we do get a bit more than $75 a month these days!”

“The mule is a cross between a donkey and a horse,” saidRyan, noting that the mule results from a jack donkey and a female horse.

“They’re stronger. Their muscles are more dense, and they can consume poorer qualityvegetation than horses – and their digestive system is slower.”

Ryan was quick to observe that while people say the mule isstubborn, “they’re not stubborn, they’re more intelligent!”

The Rocky Mountain Regional Specialty Packstring led by Ryandoes work mostly in South Dakota, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas and Nebraska. And while they conduct training andfrequently represent the Forest Service at events like Cheyenne Frontier Days,parades and other events, most of their time is dedicated to work projectsacross the region.

“Tomorrow, we’ll be off to the Big Horn mountains to removea bunch of old bridges.” It’s anon-going task over the past few years. They’ve hauled out 150 mule loads of garbage, and about 215 tons ofsoil. It’s the kind of work for whichyou’d expect a packer to use a strong and sure-footed mule.

“Mules usually carry about 60 to 80 pound loads per side,but they can carry up to 240 pounds,” said Ryan. “They carry a lot of fence posts.”

Ryan demonstrated how to tie the mules together in a trainusing a series of half-hitches, stressing that it’s important not to tie packmules together hard and fast, because “you can kill them that way.” If they go over an edge, they’ll take anotherone with them.

And the most dangerous thing on the trail?

Bees.

Moon Walkers took a respite this month and
enjoyed a program all about pack mules.

Bee swarms can cause real havoc and – according to Ryan –are the most dangerous thing you can encounter. This observation from a packer who’s encountered lots of critters on thetrail, including mountain lions.

Ryan acknowledged that mules can be a bit testy if theydon’t know what’s going on. The absenceof ligaments in their hind legs gives them flexibility to unleash lethal kickssideways as well as to the rear.

“When mules have packs on, they can’t see what’s behindthem. So when linking them together in astring, I always approach them cautiously and call their names and talk tothem.”

He has admittedly grown fond of his mules over the years,and he has special monikers for them, usually choosing the name of someone withwhom he has worked. There’s Rory, andBecky, and… well, several others.

When one of the Moon Walkers asked Ryan if he had a favoriteamong his mules, his wife Alice quickly retorted, “Yup, he has nine of them!”

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

Note: You'll find additional photos and information in our Moon Walk Gallery.

The Alabaugh fire....revisited

2011-07-19T20:12:00.005-06:00

Al Stover (left-front) tells of the Alabaugh fire.

Extremely hot weather, tempered by a late afternoonthundershower and lingering sprinkles throughout the evening, did little todampen the enthusiasm of about 65 Moon Walkers in the Black Hills National Forestlast weekend (7/16/11).

This month, it was a visit in the Whitney Preserve, located about 10 miles southwest of Hot Springs, in thevicinity of the old Brainerd Indian School. The property is now under the auspices by theNature Conservancy, whose nature trail offers one of the finest hikes forbirdwatchers in Black Hills. The preserve is located on the eastern edgeof a large, undeveloped landscape, where elements of sage lands, pine forests,and mixed grasslands come together. It’sthe convergence of those habitats that motivated the Nature Conservancy to pushfor its preservation. It was named for Nathanieland Mary Whitney, South Dakotaconservation pioneers.

Mary Ellen Goulet

The focus of this Moon Walk was to explore the impactof the Alabaugh fire, which burned just over 10,000 acres across this region in2007. For a photo account of this hike, vist Moon Walk Gallery.

The scene was set by area resident Mary Goulet, who shareda few of her personal experiences regarding the fire. She and her husband, Bob Lee, had retired tothe southern Black Hills from careers in Minnesotawhen – at about 7 o’clock, on the seventh day, of the seventh month of 2007. –the the Alabaugh blaze engulfed their fire-resistant home not far from CascadeSprings. The fire ended up destroying 33homes, claiming one life, and injuringtwo firefighters. Goulet was moved to writea book about the fire and its consequences for about 30 different families. She entitled the book Cascade of Flames, and in it she wrote about the heroism of the men and women whofought the blaze. In one chapter, sherecognized the performance of the local sheriff in Fall River county. “The sheriff headed evacuation efforts, andhe pretty much knew where all the people lived,” she told the group. Without that kind knowledge, the human toll ofthe fire could have been much worse.

After about a 10-minute presentation by Goulet, Bob Paulsonof the Nature Conservancy led the group from the parking lot on the property toa nearby road where the hike began. Along the way, Al Stover of Wind Cave National Park and Cascade Springsresident Mac Lamphere offered additional insight into the event. Stover was formerly with the South DakotaDivision of Forestry and served as incident commander for the Alabaugh blaze. Lamphere was among the many local folks whofought the massive fire.

July Moon Walkers on the climb!

Billed as a “two mile roundtrip hike,” the huffing andpuffing of many July Moon Walkers gave rise to skepticism about the accuracy of the advertised distance of this walk.

“It’s at least four miles round trip” we heard one hikerobserve while catching his breath midway up the side of a hill.

Organizer Amy Ballard of the U.S. Forest Service noted thatshe relies on the hosts and speakers regarding such matters – but participantswere warned that it would be necessary for them to climb “400 feet in one mileuphill over uneven terrain to the top of the ridge.” And, indeed, we had been warned. Nonetheless, a mid-hike breather for all would have been good, and it would have allowed the group to stay together better.

Whether the difficulty of this hike was accurate or not, it was probably one of the morechallenging hikes in recent years, but it offered some marvelous views andprovided walkers with some good information about both the Alabaugh fire andU.S. Forest Service prescribed burns.

The Nature Conservancy, as they often have done, offeredcookies, hot chocolate and lemonade to all participants following the walk.

Despitesplendid views of a full moon just the night before, this Moon Walk was devoidof any such pleasurable lunar sight, leaving us to hope that we’ll fare better inAugust. That’s when Moon Walkers will next gather –on Saturday, August 13^th – for a hike in the southern Black Hills to learn more about the use of pack mules within the U.S.Forest Service.

140 hikers enjoy Wildflowers along Centennial Trail

2011-06-30T16:48:00.006-06:00

A beautiful evening greeted participants for the June 18^th National Forest Moon Walk that explored a variety of prairie plants and wildflowers in the northern Black Hills.

Botanist Jill Larson

Sponsored by the Black Hills National Forest and the Black Hills Parks and Forests Association, the walk started at the Alkali Creek Trailhead just a couple of miles north of Sturgis off of I-90.

Ballard introduced botanist Jill Larson of the Northern Hills Ranger Station in Spearfish who was the principal speaker and our guide through Bureau of Land Management fields included in the walk. A native of the Seattle area, Larson holds a B.A. from Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington, and an M.S. in Botany from the University of Wyoming. She provided participants with a list of some 112 plants that might be found along the route. It included not only the common names of the plants, but their family, genus, and species – as well as the area of the walk where they’d likely to appear.

There wasn’t much time for using the list as a reference on this walk, but it’s a wonderful tool for returnees who want to take their time on a subsequent hike of the area.

The walk started northward from the Alkali Creek parking area along the Centennial Trail, and then crossed under Interstate 90 before winding its way toward a high meadow and the timber.

As usual, there was a very diverse group of hikers. This time, younger folks – in particular – enjoyed sharing samples of their findings with Jill Larson, who displayed keen knowledge of the plants. She usually was at the ready to give the official plant classification, only occasionally pausing to come up with its common name.

From soapweed yucca and poison ivy (yikes!) to blue larkspur and plains pricklypear, there was an abundance of wildflowers and a decidedly nice-sized group of people to enjoy them.

Timing is everything, and there was no full moon in which to bask on this hike. Had there been a full moon available, we had some beautiful weather to enjoy it!

As always, we captured a few photos on the hike. You’ll find them posted in our Moon Walk Gallery.

“This walk was dedicated to former Forest botanist Andrew Korth, who led a wildflower Moon Walk over Reynold’s Prairie last June,” said Amy Ballard, Forest Moon Walk Coordinator. Andy died in a boating accident near Belle Fourche the next day.

The next Moon Walk outing is set for Saturday, July 16 and will be hosted by the Nature Conservancy. They’ll be offering refreshments and a restroom for participants – and both of those items will be welcome additions for this somewhat more strenuous hike. It’s a two-mile trek that will climb 400 feet uphill over uneven terrain. The speakers will be May Goulet, author of “Cascade of Flames,” and Al Stover of Wind Cave National Park. They’ll discuss the forest and grassland ecosystem that has emerged since the 2007 Alabaugh Fire in the area.

To reach the Moon Walk site, travel south of Hot Springs on South Dakota Highway 71 for 8.2 miles. Pass the Cascade Springs Picnic Area at 7.9 miles. Turn right just past the main house parking area and travel .4 miles to the guest house parking area. Signs will be posted at major intersections to direct visitors to the site.

Walkers are encouraged to bring flashlights, water and bug repellant and to dress for unexpected weather and cooler nighttime temperatures. Long pants are recommended as ticks and rattlesnakes could be encountered.

After fires and pine beetles: new life in the Black Hills

2011-05-22T22:31:00.004-06:00

The first Moon Walk for 2011 took place near Horse
Creek Road south of Pactola Reservoir. 'Twas a bit
soggy, but mere rain isn't likely to cancel the event.

Despite drenching rains and brisk temperatures Saturday evening (5/21/11), a couple of dozen hardy souls braved the elements to help launch another season of Moon Walks in the Black Hills National Forest.

But with a surprising suspension of the downpour, Mother Nature delivered a rather pleasant evening for the Moon Walkers to learn about the Black-backed Woodpecker and the forest fires that provide the species with a habitat. The setting for this event was in a high meadow of the Horse Creek area southwest of Pactola Reservoir about a mile west of U.S. 385.

Recreation Forester Amy Ballard told the assembled group that this is the 16^th consecutive year of Moon Walks in the Black Hills, and she assembled a great cast of characters to guide the group through an informative evening.

USFS Fire and Fuels Specialist Chris Stover, who works out of the Mystic Ranger District, gave folks an overview of how prescribed burns and thinning projects help to improve wildlife habitat. Such burns help move the land toward a more natural condition and allow a more rapid regeneration of the ponderosa pine trees that are so abundant in this region.

“There are about 140 starts (fire starts) in the Black Hills every year,” said Stover. “Most of those are caused by lightning.”

He referenced two exceptional fires in the Hills: the 1939 McVey Fire, and the more recent Jasper fire, which destroyed more than 90,000 acres in just three days.

“Then there was the 1991 Horse Creek prescribed fire. We lost control of it – due to some unusual weather circumstances.” Nonetheless, the success of prescribed fires has resulted in a greener forest and improved habitat for animals.

“The Horse Creek area is now an ideal elk habitat,” Stover added.

Chad Lehman and a
Black-backed Woodpecker

Wildlife biologist Chad Lehman is researching the effects of fire on woodpecker reproduction. He observed that you can now see large patches of green forest, offering high quality forage for elk that now graze in the area.

“In time, we may see grouse in this area, along with additional stands of aspen trees.”

After a short uphill hike, Chris Rota from the University of Missouri broadcast a Black-backed Woodpecker bird call through a portable amplifier – hoping to lure one of the birds to the high outcropping of rocks where the Moon Walkers were clustered.

At first, there was nothing. Then we heard a response from a nearby woodpecker, but he only tempted us with his return calls – he (or was it a she?) wouldn’t hazard a flight to our location.

A doctoral student, Rota led our group to a nearby stand of pine trees, one of which had hosted a Black-backed Woodpecker nest, identified by a small hole about two inches in diameter. Rota’s graduate work has been focused upon this species, which he says are attracted to habitat created by wildfire and mountain pine beetle infestations.

“Our research seeks to understand the role prescribed fire can play to simultaneously create habitat for this species while reducing the risk of catastrophic wildfire,” he said.

"Both the male and female woodpeckers participate in building the nest, which is simply a hollowed out area within the tree, usually at a fairly low level.”

“Squirrels are perhaps the greatest predator for the Black-backed Woodpeckers,” said Rota, “but the birds will fight back at the squirrels.”

Rota has banded many of the birds, often cutting a hole in the side of the tree right next to the nest. He can then reach in and band the smaller birds.

Chris Rota points to a nesting hole of a Black-backed
Woodpecker during the first "Moon Walk" of 2011.

“I’ve actually learned the genealogy of some of these birds; although we don’t know for certain what their life span is, some of the birds I banded back in 2007 are still around.”

The Black-backed Woodpecker is found primarily in western North America, but their range in Canada extends east to the Maritime Provinces. It is not thought to be a migratory bird. While not considered “endangered,” the bird is considered a “sensitive” species. Their populations are high in areas that have endured wildfires and the onset of pine beetles.

The Moon Walkers trek back down the hillside to their vehicles was not any to soon; more rain was imminent. By the time many of them reached U.S. 385 – less than a mile away – rains returned.

It was a fine start for another season of Moon Walks, especially since organizers were tempted to cancel the event because of the weather.

Normally, only lightning will cause cancellation of Black Hills Moon Walks, but this has been an unusual May. Heavy snow just a few days earlier left many folks wondering if the walk would go on as planned.

The next Moon Walk is slated for Saturday, June 18^th in the northern Black Hills and is entitled “Forest Wildflowers." The event is dedicated to the memory of USFS botanist Andrew Korth, who led a similar outing last year but lost his life in a boating accident the following day.

Details about the June outing will be forthcoming. Persons who want to be included on the e-mail notification list should contact Amy Ballard of the Mystic Ranger District..

Don’t forget, we also post additional information and photographs in our Moon Walk Gallery.

Rest in peace?

2011-03-07T13:00:00.001-07:00

Undated view of Terry, South Dakota

With all the talk lately about the Terry Cemetery, which appears threatened by the planned expansion of gold mining near Terry Peak, we thought it might be of interest to post this photograph from the Lawrence County Historical Society archives.

The undated image -- probably taken at the dawn of the 20th century -- contains considerable detail. It is simply labeled "Terry." As can be seen, Terry was a formidable community, reliant upon the mining industry. Some of the old gold mining operations of an earlier era can be seen to the left in the photo. That's probably the main operation of the Golden Reward Mining Company, which was easily the biggest business in Terry.

Terry was also a stop on the Burlington rail line.

Calamity Jane

In her book Roadside History of South Dakota, author Linda Hasselstrom wrote that Terry was "home to a thousand people in 1893" and was one of the larger communities of Lawrence County.

If you click on the town photo above, you'll see a larger image, and you'll be able to more clearly see details of the old town, including the steeple of a church climbing skyward in the upper right quadrant.

By most accounts, Martha Jane Cannary -- better known as Calamity Jane -- died in 1903 at the Calloway Hotel in Terry. She was 51 years old. Apparently Jane had requested that she be buried in Deadwood near Wild Bill Hickok, which is exactly what happened.

Some reckon that Hickok probably wouldn't have been too keen on that arrangement. But for Calamity Jane, it was probably just as well. Otherwise, she might have been buried in Terry, meaning that she could be uprooted anyway, if Wharf Resources chooses to go after the gold they believe is underneath the old Terry Cemetery.

Terry Cemetery

Disturbing the old cemetery at Terry.......now THAT is something many folks might consider a real calamity.

There are at least 120 souls who "went to their final resting place" at Terry Cemetery. Although less than a couple of hundred yards away from Nevada Gulch Road (State Highway 473), the cemetery is hidden by a steep hill that runs adjacent to the busy road. Workers on their way home from a day at Wharf Resources -- and skiers on their way to Terry Peak Lodge -- are likely oblivious to the existence of this historic little cemetery.

If you have photographs or any information about the old town of Terry that you'd like to contribute, please contact us at Black Hills Journal.

2011 Moon Walk schedule announced

2011-03-01T10:06:00.000-07:00

Terry Cemetery area targeted

2010-12-31T16:29:00.000-07:00

With gold prices nearly double what they were 10 years ago, Wharf Resources indicates they're moving forward with plans to expand their mining operations near Terry Peak -- and that could have implications for the Terry Cemetery.

Although Wharf started its application process in September, it's been pretty much under the radar ever since. That is, until a story by Kevin Woster emerged last week in the Rapid City Journal. Woster wrote that the proposal "worries some nearby landowners and could force the relocation of more than 200 graves in the Terry Cemetery."

Above is a bit of history regarding the Terry Cemetery as depicted in the LCHS 1994 publication "Cemeteries and Graves in Lawrence County and Environs," edited by Irma Klock.

We suspect Wharf's proposal will gain additional attention in coming days as folks have an opportunity to comment on their plan. If you wish to be heard, you should act by Tuesday, January 11th. For a wealth of information -- and an opportunity to comment -- go to the South Dakota Department of Environment and Natural Resources web site.

As a sidebar, we are reminded of the appropriate steps taken some years back by Hershey Food Corporation when they discovered an old cemetery on land they were preparing to convert to a parking lot near their west plant in Hershey, Pennsylvania. As it turns out, it was an old Hammacher family cemetery, ancestors of many Hamaker families now living in western South Dakota and western Nebraska. Hershey stepped up to the plate and did the right thing by taking leadership in helping to preserve this historic cemetery. We believe their actions serve as a model of corporate and civic responsibility.

We hope Wharf Resources will display the same kind of leadership, but a public nudge in that direction might help.

West River History Conference recap

2010-10-20T14:26:00.001-06:00

This summary of the 2010 West River History Conference was provided by Shebby Lee, its President.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Participants in the Eighteenth Annual West River History Conference were very pleased with the new venue according to the evaluations and feedback for the conference which ended September 25. The fully-equipped and modern classrooms enhanced the experience and were complimented by the lounge area with its cozy fireplace, and spacious ballroom where booksellers offered biographies and historic books for sale.

Presenters at this year's conference hailed from as far away as AZ, Texas, and NY. As always, attendees also came from the neighboring states of North Dakota, Wyoming, Nebraska and Minnesota as well as Kansas and all parts of South Dakota.

Attendance was also up over record-breaking 2009, and plans are already underway for next year's conference to be held Sept. 22, 23, and 24 at the Surbeck Center on the School of Mines campus in Rapid City, SD. Check our website often as plans are unveiled for another exciting conference in 2011.

2009 Award Winners

At the Friday awards luncheon, winners of the 2009 conference papers were announced. Winner of the best student paper was Emily Wicks of Faith High School, whose paper was entitled "Annie Oakley: Guns, Romance and Hardships". Second place went to Cassie Foster, Faith High School for her paper, "The Myths and Legends of Belle Starr, the ‘Bandit Queen'".

First place in the adult category went to Pat Moore of Chestnut Hill, MA, for her paper, "Answering the Call: Women Missionaires in the West, 1810-1900". Pat has donated her prize to the WRHC scholarship fund. Second place went to Jan Cerney of Philip, SD for her paper entitled, "Missionary Corabelle Fellows. Victim of the Yellow Press". Third place was awarded to Donna Fisher of Deadwood for her paper, "Pursuit of Art: Grace French, Pioneer Artist and Teacher". With so many excellent papers, the judges opted to award an additional Honorable Mention to Barb White of Herrick, SD, for "How Todd Lost His County (and Found it Again Out West)"

In addition to prizes for best papers, the conference presents awards to deserving promoters and preservers of history in our region. The Herb Blakely Award for outstanding contributions to local and regional history, a sense of American Patriotism, and efforts to further the concepts of good citizenship went to Mary Lewis of Wasta, SD. The Zoom Zoom award for outstanding support of local history went to Marcia Hill of Rapid City; and the Sandria Friske Helping Hand Award went to Grove Rathbun of Rapid City.

The conference was made possible with support by the South Dakota Humanities Council, an affiliate of the National Endowment for the Humanities, the Deadwood Historic Preservation Commission, Black Hills Corral of Westerners, International, the Society of Black Hills Pioneers, the Reptile Gardens, Keystone Historical Museum, Big Thunder Gold Mine, the South Dakota State Railroad Museum, Lewis Publishing and Dode Lee.

Fall colors in the northern Black Hills

2010-09-29T23:47:00.005-06:00

With all the hype over fall colors across the Black Hills, it seemed prudent to sneak a peek before they fade and we find ourselves trudging through snow.

Well, hype it may be, but we couldn't help but get caught up -- as we always do -- with the beauty of our region. A bit later in the day than we wanted, we were winding through Spearfish Canyon beyond Roughlock Falls to Forest Service Road 222. A small side road offered the scene above in the waning moments of daylight.

This was a gentle reminder of why we chose the Black Hills as home.

Compared to Black Hills gold rush, "California was nothing..."

2010-09-24T15:25:00.015-06:00

A nice-sized crowd showed up for the final Black Hills National Forest Moon Walk of 2010 last Saturday night (9/18/10) near the old gold mining community of Meyersville, located a few miles south of Rochford.

The remnants of Meyersville are typical of hundreds of villages that sprung up in the Black Hills following the discovery of gold in the 1870s. There’s not much left except a few timbers, stones, a few holes in the ground, and an occasional building.

The sun had already slipped behind the hills to the southwest by the time speaker Bill Swanson welcomed the group Saturday evening. A high school science teacher in New Underwood, Swanson was born in Deadwood and grew up in the northern hills – developing a keen interest in the history of this region. In fact, he’s the second generation of Swansons leading community education classes about history in the Black Hills – his father taught the first ones back in 1976.

After working on oilers for several years, the younger Swanson says he came back to the hills and is proud to carry on the tradition his father started. His folksy presentation was well-received by the group that gathered for his September presentation entitled “Mining Towns of the Late 1800s.”

Focus of this Moon Walk was Meyersville, a mining community that dates back to 1883, nestled in a small valley north of Deerfield Reservoir.

“It was never much of a town,” Swanson said, “basically a settlement and mining camp. Residents purchased supplies from Rochford , Lead or Custer.” Up the road toward Deerfield are the Yellow Bird and King of the West Mines, but those two sites weren’t included as part of this Moon Walk. Even in daylight, those two old sites are mostly hidden from view, even though they are right alongside the road.

Swanson led the walkers up a narrow path to a place where a few timbers and stones remain from the old forty stamp mill that once stood.

“This is the original site of what was later the Lookout mine and mill. It was here for about six month, but then the equipment and timbers were moved to Lookout.”

Farther up the hillside, hidden in the woods, were the leaning timbers of a house that was part of the operation. Swanson’s partner in researching and writing history articles about the Black Hills – Mart Krause of Rapid City – says that the leaning timbers that remain were once a part of the Frank Cochran mining headquarters, built in 1890. While the mining operation soon moved, the old building has remained all this time. As recently as the 1990s, the building was upright and an old safe was situated inside. It is now long since gone.

We trudged through the tall grass and negotiated a fence, finding yet another building in the woods that – even in daylight – would be hard to spot.

Swanson went to the center of the building, while hikers remained clustered around the perimeter of the structure, attentatively listening as Swanson gave further details about the defunct gold mine.

In his presentation to the assembled Moon Walkers, Swanson suggested “getting out of your cars, hiking to the sites, closing your eyes, and try listening back 130 years to what was going on. There were no airplanes. No 4-wheelers.” Walking along a path, Krause told us that he and Swanson always hike in to locations like this – they never use motorized vehicles that might disturb the site.

Swanson said other research has indicated that as many as 1,500 post offices were strewn throughout the Black Hills region during its mining rush.

“This was the last real gold rush,” he said. “California was nothing compared to this. Ore was still coming out of the Black Hills more than 100 years after it had been discovered.”

The price of gold has now busted above $1,300 per ounce, and you might expect to see a resurgence of mining in the Black Hills. But despite the continuing operation at Wharf Resources – and maybe a few more placer miners among visiting tourists – it’s likely that newcomers roaming the hills these days are in search of another valuable item, more untold history about these beautiful Black Hills.

And with this final Moon Walk for 2010, we were treated to plenty of it. We've posted a few photos from the event in our 2010 Moon Walk Gallery.

With thanks to all of the presenters – and the folks at the U.S. Forest Service, who have facilitated the Moon Walks – we’re already eagerly awaiting new topics and locations for 2011!

It's only a 'baby' rattlesnake...

2010-09-02T21:13:00.015-06:00

Perhaps it was the absence of the wooded beauty of rugged hills punctuated by beautiful lakes and streams. Maybe it was the prospect of crossing paths with an irritated rattlesnake. Or it could simply have been serendipity.

Whatever the reason, the turnout of the August Moon Walk (8/21/10) to the rolling grasslands adjacent to Badlands National Park were a bit on the slim side. But the 50 or so folks who showed up for the Grassland Conservation program at the Double Bar Seven Ranch east of Scenic weren’t disappointed! The monthly Moon Walks are sponsored by the Black Hills National Forest and have become popular outings for hundreds of area residents. The walks take place monthly from May through September on the Saturday evening closest to the full moon.

Ranger David Slepnikoff stepped in for Amy Ballard this month, welcoming attendees to a Nature Conservancy ranch nestled just north of the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. It was an opportunity to hear about recent land acquisitions by the Nature Conservancy and learn more about their efforts to get ranching and wildlife entities working together.

Our principal guide for the walk was Bob Paulson of Rapid City, who is a Nature Conservancy Program Director. Bob has been involved with the conservancy for some 14 years. With an undergraduate degree from North Dakota State University in Fargo, he completed an MBA at Denver University, followed by a career as an industrial engineer and owning his own businesses in Denver and then Rapid City. Paulson told us that the Nature Conservancy has bought more than six thousand acres in the western Conata Basin since November of 2007 after working around the area for about six or seven years, getting to know the landowners and exploring possibilities. The Conata Basin, comprised of some 143,000 acres just south of the Badlands, contains what the conservancy says is one of the most “intact remaining grasslands” in the United States.

The land purchased by the Nature Conservancy includes more then 25,000 acres of federal grazing allotments, which are replete with black-footed ferrets – one of the rarest mammals in North America.

“The Conservancy’s acquisition of land in the Basin will help secure conservation of the rare black-footed ferret while providing grazing opportunities for area ranchers,” said Paulson, who proceeded to guide Moon Walk participants westward past the Double Bar Seven barn and into a field inhabited by prairie dogs.

Doug Albertson is the relatively new Lands Manager for the Nature Conservancy in western South Dakota. Among other things, he oversees the Double Bar Seven ranch, which runs about 139 heifers on the property. Albertson has extensive experience as a wildlife biologist at Badlands National Park and is extremely knowledgeable about both black-footed ferrets and the abundance of prairie dogs that have created colonies across some 5,800 acres on the ranch and adjacent allotments. That's Doug Albertson at right, underneath a nearly full moon.

Albertson shared a bit of history about the animal species that have been reintroduced into the Badlands since its establishment as a National Monument in 1939. They included bighorn sheep, bison, swift fox, and black-footed ferrets. The black-footed ferrets are the only ferrets native to North America.

While there were no ferrets believed to be in the colony visited by our Moon Walkers, we did enjoy seeing and hearing the prairie dogs vocalize.

“But we know they’re around. They’re nocturnal. In winter, with fresh snow and no wind, we can snow track them. They have distinctive foot prints, and their eyes shine an emerald-green. You can learn more about this fascinating little creature by reading "Return of the Black-footed Ferret.”

“Ferrets have a long association with native Americans, who made use of the hides,” said Albertson. Ferret history in the region was first noted in 1851. In more modern times – the 1960’s – ferrets were put on the list as being extinct. After a brief resurgence of colonies in Wyoming in the 1970’s and ‘80s, they again declined. Bubonic plague has negatively affected prairie dogs, which are prey for the ferrets. The plague has impacted colonies as recently as 2007-08.

The Moon Walkers then proceeded across a field to a rise overlooking a grove of cottonwood trees called Casey Springs.

Bob Paulson matter-of-factly advised walkers to stand clear of the are near the edge of the rise, since a baby rattlesnake had given warning that it really didn’t want to be disturbed. Most folks immediately stepped back from the area; interestly, a few folks had to come closer to inspect the snake – perhaps saying hello to its mama.

Paulson recounted just how difficult it is for ranchers in this region, one of the last areas of the country to be homesteaded.

“Homesteading was a pretty good deal in areas getting more than 25 inches of rain. Working the 160 acres of land for five years, paying a title fee, and the land was yours. But out here, that’s not enough land to make a living on…but out here, drought is the rule, not the exception, and many folks have moved away,” said Paulson.

He said there are just eight private ranches in the Conata Basin – some 32,000 private acres.

The Nature Conservancy is working to exchange some of its land for scattered parcels in Fall River, Custer and Pennington counties which are generally less than 160 acres and typically not adjacent to other Forest Service land. Trading land into national forest ownership reduces public-private boundaries and helps lock up the ownership in bigger ownership patterns.

Unlike some of our Black Hills National Forest Moon Walks, our August trek was blessed with a nearly full moon beaming over our path back to the ranch house.

It was a delightful evening, capped with cookies, cocoa, and cider. For more photographs and information, visit our Moon Walk Gallery.

Next month, Moon Walkers will explore some of the Mining Towns of the Late 1800s in the central Black Hills. It’s slated for Saturday, September 18th, and promises to be a fantastic finale for another year of memorable Moon Walks. See you there!

Moon Walk features prehistoric rock art

2010-07-28T10:28:00.005-06:00

The southern Black Hills is steeped in archaeological sites, and July Moon Walkers had an opportunity to learn a bit about just a few of them.

Gathering in a field alongside U.S. highway 18 just a few miles north of Edgemont, participants prepared for the two-mile trek to Stone Quarry Canyon.

Archaeologist Michael Engelhart (shown at right) was the featured speaker for this Moon Walk. He works for the Hell Canyon Ranger District of the Black Hills National Forest. A native of North Dakota, Michael shared his knowledge of prehistoric rock art, which seems to abound in this area. His two boys, Rueben and Isaac, joined us for the Moon Walk, too, as did Michael’s fiancée and fellow Forest Service employee, Ami. They live in Custer.

This was the largest Moon Walk of the year, according to coordinator Amy Ballard of the U.S. Forest Service, which co-sponsors the events with the Black Hills Parks and Forests Association.

“We had 263 participants Saturday night,” said Ballard.

“We are having a good year for attendance at the Moon Walks - 576 participants with two more programs to go!

While the 263 count is the largest for this year, it’s still considerably short of the record, according to Ballard.

“Our largest attended walks were the 1880 Train program in 2005 at 371 participants, and the Mountain Lion program in 2006 with 348 participants. Since December of 1996 we have hosted 114 programs with 11,985 participants.”

That averages out to about 105 participants per program.

This is a drawing of the main rock art panel at Stone Quarry Canyon. It captures well most of what one experiences in the Canyon. Linea Sundstrom published this drawing in her book Fragile Heritage: Prehistoric Rock Art of South Dakota, 1993, by the National Park Service through the South Dakota Historical Preservation Center.

Horizontal and vertical "hoop" designs were capture nets that were used to funnel and concentrate the game. This type of rock art is called "pecked realistic" and dates in the Black Hills From 2500-7500 years ago. It is the oldest type. You can click on this image to see a larger version.

In the center of the lower right is a stick with a diamond shaped object. This is an atlatl, a prehistoric hunting tool that predates bow and arrow.

One can notice humans (including pregnant woman, upper right) dogs, deer, antelope, and mountain lion in the petroglyph. The mountain lion has been interpreted as a sign of a succcessful hunt.

Visit our Moon Walk Gallery for additional photos and information about this and other Moon Walks.

The July outing was dedicated to botanist Andrew Korth, who led the June 26th Moon Walk about wildflowers near Deerfield Reservoir. He died in a boating accident the next day, along with Forest Service colleague Jeramy Rogers and his daughter, Sierra Rogers.

Our next Moon Walk is scheduled for Saturday, August 21st, east of Scenic, South Dakota. The Nature Conservancy will discuss the unique plants and conservation efforts of a recent land acquisition in that area. Find more information about Moon Walks and other Forest Service initiatives at Black Hills National Forest.

Forest Wildflowers

2010-07-21T21:57:00.001-06:00

In the wake of the June 27^th accident that claimed the lives of Andrew Korth, Jeramy Rogers, and Sierra Rogers while on a canoe outing near Orman Dam near Belle Fourche, we have delayed writing a review of the June Moon Walk. Andy Korth, shown here at right, led the program about wildflowers.

But, as Moon Walk coordinator Amy Ballard rightly observed, “let’s enjoy the outdoors as they would.”

It’s time to proceed with information about another pleasant evening exploring the outdoor beauty of our beloved Black Hills.

The June 26^th event, “Forest Wildflowers,” was conducted just north of Deerfield Reservoir in the central Black Hills. Botanist Andrew Korth was our lead guide, and he – along with a group of fellow botanists – introduced us to the habitat, identification, and management of a variety of wildflowers. They had gone into this meadow earlier and labeled a couple of dozen wildflowers, allowing moonwalkers to amble along at their own pace, stopping to examine each of the flowers and ask questions, as necessary.

We were again blessed with beautiful weather, luring some 130 people to the rolling hills known as “Reynolds Prairie.”

Having grown up near the sandhills of western Nebraska, we were not surprised at the colorful diversity offered by wildflowers – but they seemed especially prolific in this year of abundant moisture across the Black Hills.

We took a few dozen photos on this outing, alternating between the diverse cast of characters who frequent Moon Walks, and the splendid floral offerings presented by Mother Nature.

Take a look at our Moon Walk Gallery and sample a few of the wildflowers that we enjoyed – along with the faces of a few of our fellow sojourners! You'll find images from all of our Moon Walks, starting with the most recent. Among the wildflowers we found was this Cressleaf Groundsel, shown at left. We’ve added some commentary and supplemental information that you might find helpful, too.

These Moon Walks are held monthly on Saturday nights close to the official full moon. The walks begin at 7 o'clock and generally last one to two hours.

The Black Hills Moon Walks are sponsored by the Black Hills National Forest and the Black Hills Parks and Forests Association. For more information about the Moon Walks and other activities in the Hills, visit the official web site for the Black Hills National Forest.

Moon Walk leader drowns in boating accident

2010-06-28T11:15:00.006-06:00

We are deeply saddened to report the death of Andrew Korth, 26, the young botanist who led our Moon Walk in the Black Hills National Forest near Deerfield Lake last Saturday evening (6/26/10).

Andrew was one of three persons who drowned Sunday (6/27/10) after their canoe capsized near a diversion dam for the Belle Fourche Irrigation District. We learned only this morning about the tragic accident, which also took the lives of Jeramy Rogers, 38, and Sierra Rogers, 11. Another youngster, 8-year-old Isabella Rogers, survived the accident and was able to summon help. The incident was reported in the Monday edition of the Rapid City Journal.

Andrew Korth was a native of Humphrey, Nebraska, and graduated from St. Francis High School in Humphrey before enrolling at South Dakota State University, where he earned a degree in Wildlife History in 2006. He received a Master’s degree in Botany in 2008. Before joining the U.S. Forest Service in early 2009, Andrew worked for a short time on coal mine reclamation in Wyoming. He was single.

“When this job came open, I jumped on it,” he told me with a big grin, just before leading our Moon Walk group on a trek across Reynolds Prairie to inspect the wide array of wildflowers that he had helped identify and describe for the outing.

Our heartfelt sympathy goes out to the families and close friends of Andrew Korth, and Jeramy and Sierra Rogers.

Owls topic of first Moon Walk

2010-05-25T10:28:00.013-06:00

Moon Walks in the Black Hills National Forest continue to be a summer highlight for many residents of the region.

So it was not a huge surprise when – despite threatening weather – more than 175 people found their way to the site of an old CCC camp south of Pactola Reservoir on Saturday (5/22/10). Our short walk in the woods was designed to share information about owls of the region. Coincidentally, the old Horse Creek CCC camp was established back in 1933 on May the 22nd -- the calendar day of this Moon Walk. This was the first of five Moon Walks planned for this summer by the U.S. Forest Service in the Black Hills region.

Tour guide for this early evening trek was Nancy Drilling, a biologist from the Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory in Colorado. A native of Waterloo, Iowa, Drilling has been with the observatory for more than six years. She has a Ph.D. in Conservation Biology from the University of Minnesota.

“There was a lot of speculation about the kinds of owls in the Black Hills, but nobody really knew,” said Drilling. That’s why she’s been conducting surveys in the Hills for the past two years.

“The surveys occur during March, April and early May, when owls begin breeding. They are the first birds to breed each year.”

Of course, it might have been a bit much for such a large group to expect to see an owl on this single outing, but we did hope one of the creatures might respond to the vocalizations that Nancy Drilling (shown at right) would play through a portable sound system.

After an easy walk down a two-track road for about a mile, Drilling gave an introduction to four common owls found throughout this region. They are the Great Horned Owl, the Easter Screech Owl, the Long-eared Owl, and the Northern Saw-Whet. She shared a bit of information about owls, including the fact that most owls are nocturnal. Their keen hearing and advanced night vision serve them well as birds of prey.

Owls seldom build their own nests, choosing instead to take occupancy in existing nests that are suitable. They love wooded areas, and some species will nest in knotholes of old trees. Interestingly, the female is larger than the male. Some owls prefer coniferous woods, while others make their homes in deciduous forest. A few even find their way into urban areas.

Persons wanting to learn more about owls in the Black Hills need only to contact the South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks Department to obtain a free booklet entitled Owls of South Dakota, which Drilling says contains good information and pictures.

After introductory remarks, Drilling played a few recordings to familiarize the group with owl calls. Frankly, we were surprised at the diversity of the calls. The entourage then wound its way along a creek into a more wooded area. Once situated near a grove of trees, Drilling played the various bird calls through the portable public address system.

Thirty seconds of owl calls – followed by 30 seconds of silence. That was the vocalization routine for this Moon Walk outing.

While the technique may not have elicited responding owl calls, it did create great interest among the group. We suspect that many Moon Walkers will be back on the trail one day soon conducting their own exploration for owls!

During this pleasurable two-mile round-trip sojourn, we snapped more than just a few photographs, which you’ll find in our Moon Walk Gallery, along with a bit more information about the event.

Residents of the Black Hills region have been enjoying these Moon Walks since 1996. Well over 11,000 people have participated in these programs, which have taken walkers from old mining towns and secluded caves to the Badlands and beaver dams. It's a terrific way to learn more about the beautiful Black Hills region. The next Moon Walk outing is scheduled for Saturday, June 26th in the central Black Hills, probably near Deerfield Reservoir. Forest Wildflowers will be the topic, introduced by forest botanists who will tell about the habitat, identification, and management of a variety of wildflowers.

All walks are held on Saturdays at 7:00 p.m. Directions to future Moon Walk programs will be posted here on Black Hills Journal, or you can go directly to the U.S. Forest Service website at www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills. You'll find an abundance of information there about a wide range of U.S. Forest Service activities in the Black Hills. Contact Amy Ballard at 605-343-1567 and request to get on the Moon Walk e-mail list!

Crossing the plains with Custer

2010-05-23T21:15:00.008-06:00

Veteran photographer and writer Paul Horsted never fails to entertain – and enlighten. Those traits keep him in demand on the speaking circuit.

His latest venue was today (5/23/10) at the Bay Leaf Café in Spearfish, where he led members of the Lawrence County Historical Society through the chronology and geography of General George Custer’s massive 1874 expedition to the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Horsted, who lives north of Custer, South Dakota, noted that the Custer trek was “better documented than any other military expedition of the Old West.” Much of that documentation was assembled and edited by Horsted and his co-author Ernest Grafe for their 2002 publication Exploring with Custer – The 1874 Black Hills Expedition.

Today, Horsted employed a lively multi-media presentation to tell “the rest of the story” about that 19^th century expedition. Exploring with Custer dealt with the Black Hills area. His latest endeavor – Crossing the Plains with Custer – is a companion book that traces the Custer expedition from Fort Lincoln in north Dakota Territory to the Black Hills, including their journey back to the fort.

In his books, Horsted also uses his “then and now” display of historic photographs juxtapositioned with his contemporary photography from the same vantage point. It’s a powerful technique that has served him well – especially his book The Black Hills: Yesterday & Today.

Following his presentation, Horsted took time to answer questions and visit with folks who attended the gathering. Here, he chats with historian David Wolff (center) and Lawrence County Historical Society president Jerry Bryant (right).

For folks in the Black Hills region who've not heard one of Paul's presentation, we'd encourage you to be in the audience when he's in your neck of the woods. On Monday, May 31st, he'll be giving a free program in Custer State Park at the Game Lodge Campground beginning at 9:00 p.m.

In mid-June, he'll be sharing his presentation with attendees at the state convention of the Veterans of Foreign Wars in Custer.

You can also visit his web site at Paul Horsted - Dakota Photographic LLC

The road less traveled...

2010-05-12T21:42:00.005-06:00

The Main Street of North America is in the Heartland; home to hearty souls, colorful characters and more than one salty tale. And between Canada and the Republic of Mexico is a single ribbon of highway where a traveler will find it.

U.S. Highway 281 begins at the International Peace Gardens in North Dakota; then covers the ground that the Lewis & Clark Expedition traveled over in South Dakota; it takes those on the road less traveled to the world’s largest shamrock in Nebraska; and on to the Home on the Range in Kansas where the song originated; to the Indian Capital of the Nation in Oklahoma and finally to the famous wildflowers and cultural border towns of Texas

Now imagine that journey in song.

“Seeing it through your windshield is like watching an ever-changing canvas,” says western and folks singer/songwriter Kerry Grombacher of his Hwy 281 Troubadour Tour.

“The open range and farm ground of North and South Dakota, Nebraska’s Sand Hills and Kansas’ Gypsum Hills, the prairie of Oklahoma and the Hill Country of Texas.” Traveling the mostly two lane highway through rural America, Grombacher sees his role as one of a modern-day troubadour. “In taking stories in song from town to town, it’s a reminder to us all that there are others who have stories to share from places much like our own – wherever we might call home.”

The Heritage of the American West Performance Series will host the debut performance of the US Highway 281 Troubadour Tour, as Grombacher sets his sites on The Buffalo City (Jamestown, ND) to begin an 1,800 mile odyssey of exploring rural America…in music.

Set for Thursday, May 20 at the High Plains Western Heritage Center, Spearfish, the 90 minute live stage performance begins at 7 p.m., and also features a pre-show exhibit and reception beginning at 6:00 p.m.

A book signing with educator, historian and author Donovin Sprague will introduce his newest book in the Images of America Series, titled Ziebach County: 1920 – 2010. Sprague, a recent nominee to the prestigious USA Artist Fellowship, has also traced and recorded the histories of four Plains Indians Tribes as well as the history of the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma. In addition to the Ziebach County centennial edition, he was a contributor to the Timber Lake: 1910-2010 Images of America centennial edition.

The Heritage of the American West Hwy 281 Troubadour Tour debut performance and Images of America book signing will open its doors at 6 p.m. at the Heritage Center. Tickets are $7 for seniors/kids and $12 for adults. For more information, call 605-642-9378.

"WHO" is up first for 2010 Moon Walks?

2010-05-12T10:15:00.002-06:00

The following release comes from Amy Ballard at the U.S. Forest Service:

Join the Black Hills National Forest on Saturday, May 22 at 7:00 p.m. for an educational walk featuring owls. This 2 mile roundtrip walk through an aspen grove on a forest 2-track road is located west of Highway 385 between Pactola Reservoir and Sheridan Lake.

The featured speaker is Nancy Drilling, biologist, with the Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory in Colorado. She is currently conducting owl surveys in the Black Hills and will bring her owl calls with her to the program. Ms. Drilling will discuss owl vocalizations, their habitat needs, nesting habits and biology along with survey results.

To reach the Moon Walk site from Rapid City, SD travel west on Highway 44 to the intersection of Highway 385. Turn left or south on Highway 385 and travel approximately 8.2 miles to Horse Creek Road (FDR 243). Turn right or west on Horse Creek Road and travel 2.3 miles to FDR 343.2J. Turn left and travel approximately .3 miles. Signs will be posted at major intersections to guide visitors to the parking area.

The Forest Service suggests that visitors dress for unexpected weather and cooler nighttime temperatures. The program will not be cancelled due to rain unless lightning is spotted. About 100 visitors per walk have been attending the programs so please arrive early to aid us in parking vehicles.

For more information about the program and summer schedule or if you would like to be placed on an internet mailing list to receive the Moon Walk news releases and directions please call the U.S. Forest Service at 605-343-1567 or go to http://www.fs.usda.gov/blackhills

An invitation...

2010-03-10T00:06:00.003-07:00

Tours of the new Homestake Adams Research and Cultural Center (HARCC) in Deadwood are being offered this spring.

Each tour is designed to give citizens of the northern Black Hills a better understanding of plans for the center.

Hear the history of the Homestake Mining Company archive collection—past, present and future. See the progress that has been made during Phase I and II of the construction remodel project. Learn what remains to be done to complete the project. Discover what has been done with the Homestake Mining Company archive collection and view select items from the collection. Find out what public programming and educational opportunities will be offered at the center.

Realize the many ways you can be a part of this project.

One more March tour will be conducted from 1:00pm - 2:00pm
Tuesday, March 23, 2010

More tours will be coming up this spring and summer. If you are interested in participating, please contact Carolyn Weber at 578-1928, 920-8939 or e-mail her at Carolyn@theadamsdeadwood.org to make a reservation.

The HARCC is located in the former F.L. Thorpe Building at 150 Sherman Street, next to First Interstate Bank and Dakota Graphics. Ample parking and the entrance are located in the back of the building. For more information: http://www.adamsmuseumandhouse.org/

This old house

2010-03-03T01:58:00.015-07:00

Joel Darling looks nothing like Bob Vila, but his handiwork is every bit as impressive as anything we ever saw on PBS’s This Old House television series.

Darling, who’s lived in Spearfish for about 10 years, is the general contractor who helped homeowners Zana and Arnie Hartman realize their dream of giving new life to an old house at 717 East Grant Street in Spearfish. The Hartmans lived in Alaska for 28 years, and that’s where Zana worked as an interior decorating and design consultant – valuable experience for their “Vintage House Reborn” project.

Zana Hartman joined Darling last night (3/2/10) at the March meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society to share details – and a few surprises – about the five-year renovation of the old house on Grant Street.

And when we say “old house,” we mean “old.” No one is certain of just how old the two-story frame home really is, but its vintage is probably in the 1880 to 1900 time frame. Many folks in the audience remembered when the old house sat at a location that now serves as a funeral home parking lot. It was moved up the hill onto East Grant Street in the 1970s.

It wasn’t until about five years ago that Zana and Arnie began the ambitious job of renovating and adding on to the old house.

“We’ve done remodeling projects before, but nothing like this,” Zana told the historical society.

Darling, who works for West River Masonry, has extensive contracting experience and teamed up with the Hartmans to tackle the massive project.

It involved jacking up the house and strengthening the foundation, adding a basement, a garage, and numerous other features to the 19th century structure. Sky lights and glass blocks were installed. Windows were replaced, and a new garden shed arose from the dilapidated out building behind the house. The stairwell was widened and fortified, and a stairwell to the new basement was added. Wiring and plumbing were all re-done, and everything was brought up to code.

“It was not an easy task,” said Darling.

At left, Zana Hartman and contractor Joel Darling pause for a moment in the back yard of the Hartman house. There have been more than a few surprises along the way -- what Zana calls "curiosities."

While it wasn’t a daily occurrence, Darling said they began to routinely discover artifacts behind walls and under floors. Items ranging from an1863 sewing needle to medicine bottles and old magazines were found tucked away, as if in a time capsule. There was even a collection of hair found – and one can only speculate for what purpose it was saved!

Although it was not yet finished, the Hartmans were able to occupy the house in September of 2008. The past 18 months have found them putting the finishing touches on everything from interior décor to built-in electronics. Visit our Spearfish history Photo Gallery for some photos and additional information about Vintage House Reborn.

“It’s a 5 Star Energy Home, and our utility bills are a lot less than they used to be,” said Zana Hartman, noting that their energy bills were nearly four times as much in the old Homestake house where they previously lived.

The video presentation and artifact display spurred lots of questions, and discussion about the project continued while attendees bellied up to the snack tables for treats and drinks.

The concept of giving new life to an old house served as a good prelude to the upcoming April program at the Spearfish Area Historical Society. Veteran presenter Linfred Schuttler returns on Tuesday, April 6th, with a topic entitled, “The Town of Spearfish, Born 1876, and Born Again….and Again…” The 7:30 p.m. program will be staged at the Spearfish Senior Citizen’s Center and is open to the public.

Tales of Lookout Mountain

2010-02-03T21:57:00.010-07:00

Veteran educator Paul Dingeman was in front of a class again – but this time it was an eager group of history buffs chomping at the bit to learn more about Lookout Mountain on the northeast edge of Spearfish.

“It’s not much of a mountain,” Dingeman told members of the Spearfish Area Historical Society. “Its elevation is 4,452 feet, only about 800 feet higher than Spearfish.”

But the northern Black Hills landmark has a rich history, and Dingeman shared much of it with a packed house last night (2/2/10) at the Spearfish Senior Citizen’s Center.

Dingeman, who was born in Deadwood and raised in Spearfish, recalled hiking up the mountain numerous times as a youngster – even collecting a jar full of rattles from rattlesnakes that he’d encountered along the way over the years.

“Growing up, everyone thought Lead was the highest town in the Hills, but it’s not. Custer is 5,318 feet and Lead is 4,960. Spearfish is just 3,643 feet.”

He recalled as a 6th grader, he had to write a paper on Lookout Mountain, so he enlisted the aid of two older ladies – the “Massey girls” – who ably shared several yarns with the lad and later came to school to address the students.

The Masseys told of the early days when settlers would send lookouts to the mountain from a stockade – located about where Roma’s restaurant is situated today. They would use mirrors and smoke signals to communicate with folks back at the stockade, warning of Indians or other perceived dangers.

The mountain was referred to as a “she,” and because of its shape, “she” was deemed our “protector” and referred to as the “queen of the valley.” Thus came the origin of “Queen City” when referring to Spearfish.

Dingeman spent considerable time relating the mystery of the Thoen Stone. Discovered by Louis Thoen in 1887, the block of sandstone was found concealed near some oak trees on Lookout Mountain. On it was etched a message by one Ezra Kind, saying that he and his group had found “all the gold we could carry” in 1834. Alas, the message went on to report that all but he were killed by Indians, and that he had nothing to eat, no horse, and the Indians were hunting him.

Over the years, the validity of the story has been challenged, but researcher Frank Thomson, in his 1966 book “Thoen Stone: A Saga of the Black Hills,” defended the Thoen story.

And so it is that the stone (shown at right) has remained something of an historical controversy, and its authenticity may forever remain a mystery. It is among the many wonderful exhibits in the Adams Museum in Deadwood.

In the 1950s, Dingeman was scoutmaster of Boy Scout Troop 17 and Explorer Post 254. At the request of Frank Thomson, Dingeman shepherded his lads up the mountain where they roped off sections and commenced to dig nearly a foot deep in search of artifacts – and they came up with plenty – a pistol, a dutch oven, buttons, shovels, spent rifle casings and “all kinds of stuff.” Thomson took pictures of the findings, which were reportedly delivered to the Adams Museum in Deadwood, but Dingeman says they’re no longer to be found.

Dingeman said his mother-in-law, years ago, bought a “high-powered” metal detector and convinced him and a brother-in-law to search atop Lookout Mountain for any "Thoen gold." Alas, several long weekends of searching netted no booty!

While Deadwood would seem to have the corner on colorful wild west stories in Black Hills, Spearfish is not without a few of its own stories. Dingeman shared the story of two cattle thieves, caught at the foot of Lookout Mountain and dragged to a couple of nearby oak trees, where swift justice was exercised.

Perhaps less colorful – but just as contentious – were the struggles for routing the new Interstate Highway through Spearfish. Early plans had called for routing the superhighway to the east of Lookout Mountain – headed for Belle Fourche – before swinging back to the west toward Wyoming. After much local advocacy, highway officials changed the route to the west, but taking a route through the heart of the valley, near the site of the hospital today. Homestake Mine intervened, reminding officials that they’d have to guarantee safe delivery of all water in some 87 irrigation ditches that snaked through town. Government officials relented and moved the highway back up to its present track on the west side of Lookout Mountain.

More photos and a bit more information can be found in our History Gallery of the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

Dancing into the past

2010-01-06T02:55:00.014-07:00

Folks came to learn more about the historic Tretheway Pavilion. What they got was that and a lot more, as writer Paul Higbee teamed up with musician Gary Mule Deer for a rare evening of history and music last night (1/5/10) at the Spearfish Senior Citizen’s Center.

Some 50 people braved freezing temperatures and light snow to attend the January meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

Spearfish native Paul Higbee – who has presented many society programs over the years – was back to talk about the old Spearfish Park Pavilion, known these days as the Tretheway Pavilion.

Last year, the building was one of the first inductees into the South Dakota Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame.

“I didn’t know that buildings could be members of Halls of Fame,” Higbee quipped, “but it is – along with another building, the Arkota Ballroom in Sioux Falls,”

But the history of the Spearfish Park Pavilion pre-dates even its legendary rock ‘n roll era. Likely built in the 1920’s, the pavilion was a center of much activity – from roller skating to boxing. Of course, it was dancing that increasingly dominated the scene, especially after movies replaced much of the dancing in the old Matthews Opera House.

When Higbee asked how many in the audience had actually gone to dances at the pavilion – about half the crowd raised their hands. One lady volunteered that she’d danced there in the 1930s to Henry Phillips and the Ambassadors, a Lead group that was one of the more popular area bands.

But by the late ‘50s and into the ‘60s, it was rock ‘n roll that launched a new era for the pavilion. Artists like the Everly Brothers (at right), the Shirelles, Chubby Checker, Seals & Croft, Jerry Lee Lewis, and many others, scheduled shows at the pavilion – usually when they were on their way from one city to another, like Denver or Cheyenne to Minneapolis.

“This was music with an edge,” said Higbee, “and it was connected to booze, and fights, and cigarettes, and – yes, sex.” He noted that Gary Mule Deer once told him, while discussing the Spearfish park pavilion, that “rock and roll was about being defiant, and parents hated it!”

For kids growing up in that era, nighttime radio in western North America was dominated by the 50,000-watt powerhouse, “KOMA in Oklahoma.” The Oklahoma City station, at 1520 on the AM dial, would often mention the performers and dances scheduled throughout their wide listening area – including those at the “Spearfish Park Pavilion.” For most KOMA listeners, it was probably the first time they’d ever heard of the little town in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

By the 1970s, the pavilion happened upon hard times. Heating was becoming a big problem for the old white clapboard building, and by the 1980s there was even talk of tearing it down.

That’s when Mayor Wilbur Tretheway helped save the building. A generation earlier, Tretheway had been a member of the Henry Phillips band that played in the pavilion. The mayor helped lead a successful campaign to save and refurbish the building. Today, it carries his name.

Another fellow who’s no stranger to the pavilion is Gary Mule Deer. A surprise addition to the January program, Mule Deer spent nearly an hour singing and sharing anecdotes about the Spearfish Park Pavilion and the rock ‘n roll era.

Both Mule Deer and the Tretheway Pavilion were named to the South Dakota Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame last year. Higbee noted that another Spearfish resident – Larry Bell – is slated for induction into the Hall of Fame this year.

Our Spearfish History Gallery shares a bit more information and a few additional photos from the Tretheway Pavilion presentation.

Next month, history about "Lookout Mountain" will be shared by long-time resident Paul Dingeman. That program is set for 7:30 p.m., Tuesday, February 2nd. As always, the public is invited, and there’ll be refreshments served after the program.

Tretheway Pavilion...quite a history!

2009-12-24T15:47:00.011-07:00

“The Pavilion has always been a popular gathering site for weddings, dances, auctions, and other community events.”

So reads the City of Spearfish description of the Wilbur S. Tretheway Pavilion, located in the main city park in Spearfish, South Dakota. And while that short sentence suggests the array of social events that have taken place in the park building, there is much more to the story.

And it’s a story that will unfold Tuesday evening, January 5, 2010, when writer Paul Higbee presents a fresh perspective of the historic Tretheway Pavilion for the January program of the Spearfish Area Historical Society. His presentation begins at 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Citizens Center at 1306 Tenth Street in Spearfish.

Last year, the pavilion – named for one-time Mayor Wilbur Tretheway – was named to the South Dakota Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame.

Built in the early 20th century, the pavilion was the site for big band dances, roller skating, boxing, scouting activities, weddings, bingo, and a wide variety of school functions.

“Lots of people know about the big dances that drew thousands of young people to Spearfish in the early 1960s,” says Higbee, “but not everyone knows how major the performers were: the Everly Brothers, the Crickets, Jerry Lee Lewis, the Ronettes, Seals and Croft, Chubby Checker, and before they went country-western, Conway Twitty and Waylon Jennings.”

By the 1980s, the pavilion was nearly torn down, but Mayor Wilbur Tretheway led a successful campaign to refurbish it. According to Higbee, Tretheway had been a big band era musician who had played there.

“I always thought that was an interesting twist,” says Higbee, who says he hopes his January presentation will help people understand just how central the pavilion has been in the life of the community for some 90 years.

A Spearfish writer whose work frequently appears in South Dakota Magazine, Higbee has written for several national magazines, too. In 2000, he published a book about Spearfish history, which he says spurred his interest in researching the pavilion. Most recently, Higbee teamed up with photographer Les Voorhis in publishing “Bear Butte – Sentinel of the Plains,” just released this month.

Barns of Lawrence County

2009-12-01T23:05:00.018-07:00

When it’s a hot topic, even bitter cold weather won’t keep history buffs away! It was standing room only last night (12/1/09) at the Spearfish Senior Citizens Center as more than 75 folks crowded the hall for an incisive look at the images and histories of many “Barns of Lawrence County.”

Long-time SDSU County Extension Agent Leo Orme – now retired – was the speaker for the December meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society. Click on any of the photographs shown here, if you'd like to see a larger image.

All 42 barns included in Orme’s research are at least 50 years old. Many, of course, are even older. More than 2,000 photographs were taken as part of a project done about 10 years ago to document barns in Lawrence County. Asked if those barn photographs included any interior shots, Orme noted that most are “so full of stored stuff, that you can’t get any pictures inside.”

“We’d be here all night, if I tried to cover all 42 barns that I’ve researched,” said Orme, who shared the histories of more than a dozen barns among the many scattered across Lawrence County. Orme had worked with Bob and Ann Matheney in assembling an exhibit about the barns back in 2000. It was part of a display at the High Plains Western Heritage Center, which was a local sponsor of a national Smithsonian Institution traveling exhibit about barns.

A native of Colorado, Orme came to South Dakota in 1959 to lead a U.S. Fish and Wildlife project at the McNenny Fish Hatchery west of Spearfish. As a 4-H leader, and later as an SDSU Extension Agent, he became well acquainted with agricultural interests in the region, including many of the barns included in his research.

Orme said he’s hoping to publish a book on the barns of Lawrence County sometime in the future. At right is one of the interesting barns included in his research. It belongs to Ralph and Becky Crago and is located near the Red Water River just north of Spearfish. A few snapshots from this December meeting can be found in our History Gallery.

A more contemporary structure – but one of great popularity these days – is the Tretheway Pavilion in the Spearfish City Park. That’ll be the topic of the January gathering of the Spearfish Area Historical Society, when veteran writer Paul Higbee shares the history of the pavilion. His presentation will be at 7:30 p.m., Tuesday, January 5, 2010, and the public is invited to attend.

Homestake - It isn't over

2009-11-22T00:03:00.007-07:00

Long an economic powerhouse for the region, Homestake Mine operated for more than 125 years and was the deepest – and most productive – gold mine in North America. It closed its doors in 2002. With the people of South Dakota as new owners and an eye on science, the once prolific gold mine has started a transformation that – if and when completed – promises to make it a top-flight international research laboratory.

“The game isn’t over,” says Dr. Jose Alonso, a nuclear astrophysicist who spent 30 years at the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory in California before heading up the Sanford Underground Laboratory at Homestake. He is now director emeritus.

“One should be aware that the game isn’t over yet. The fine print on the selection was…IF the underground lab is going to be built in the United States, it will be built at Homestake.”

Alonso said the $15 million set aside to prepare a Preliminary Design Report isn’t nearly enough. Some $500 million will be needed to actually build the lab, with about half of that amount going for infrastructure – the rest for experiments. It’ll likely be some three years before we know if Congress will actually appropriate the funds for the project.

But that point didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of a couple of dozen folks who filled a downstairs room at the Adams Museum in Deadwood last Thursday (11/19/09). The museum strutted its stuff by hosting a terrific double-barreled presentation that focused on both the past and the future of Homestake. Author Steven Mitchell and scientist Dr. Jose Alonso teamed up with The Adams, the Deadwood Historic Preservation Commission, and Black Hills State University to present an all-afternoon presentation called “Homestake: Its Past and Its Future.”

With an impressive array of incisive historical research and compelling photographic images, Mitchell set the stage with a journey into both the history of the peoples and the geology of the Black Hills region. A life-long resident of the Black Hills, Mitchell holds degrees from the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology, but he belied his academic training and career as a mining engineer by demonstrating a gift for storytelling based on well-documented facts.

Reaching back to the Treaty of 1851 that sought to settle tribal territorial disputes and stabilize the precarious relations between the American Indians and westward-migrating settlers, Mitchell also shared details about the Great Reconnaissance Act of 1853 to explore the west, primarily in search of routes for expanding rail transportation. With the discovery of gold in the Black Hills in 1874 came an onslaught of entrepreneurs, many of whom became the stuff of legends.

Homestake Mine is the focus of Mitchell’s new book, Nuggets to Neutrinos: The Homestake Story. From early mining claims and extraction techniques to wily business strategies and modern technology, Mitchell seemed to cover all bases right up to the closure of the mine. He discussed several significant reclamation projects that have occurred in recent years, laying the groundwork for development of a deep underground science and engineering laboratory.

After a short intermission, the focus moved from the past to the future. Dr. Jose Alonso talked about the transition of Homestake, providing a chronology of the scientific and political maneuvering that have occurred in the last few years. Once a director of the Sanford Underground Laboratory at Homestake, he remains a champion for the project and serves as emeritus director.

Alonso walked the audience step-by-step through the “bureaucratic” solicitation process that proponents of the underground lab have followed in seeking approval for funding from the National Science Foundation.

In 2006, between the political advocacy of Governor Mike Rounds and a $70 million gift from the deep pockets of T. Denny Sanford, Homestake had “stacked the deck” against its challenger, Henderson Mine in Colorado. Barrick donated the mine – 186 surface acres – to the State of South Dakota, and Homestake had secured a $120 million war chest that could be spent to get things going early. This was an enormous advantage for Homestake – giving them a three or four year head start. It was a very enviable position in the pursuit of a world-class underground laboratory. And Alonso said there was something else that made Homestake more attractive to scientists.

“Henderson is an operating molybdenum mine… and continues to operate…and it’s very clear when you are there, even as a guest, their first interest – bottom line – is mining. So you are really a second class citizen there. You have certain case times, you have certain things you can do, certain things you cannot do. You have little control over schedule, resources, or anything else.”

“Over here (Homestake), science owns the mine. And that is huge.”

By July of 2007, the National Science Foundation endorsed a recommendation from a 22-member independent panel that tapped Homestake as the site for a University of California-Berkeley design proposal for a DUSEL (Deep Underground Science and Engineering Laboratory).

Alonso laid out the NSF timetable for awarding the $500 million to actually build the underground laboratory, noting that much more than $15 million is needed for the preliminary design phase – to be completed next year – probably something on the order of $75 million. With a final approval from NSF expected in May 2011, the $500 million project would have to be funded by Congress, and it would likely be a part of the federal FY 2013 budget request. That would require Congressional approval by about October of 2012.

If the costly and somewhat complicated funding process is a bit confusing – it pales compared to the esoteric but significant science projects on the drawing boards. In fact, early science projects are already being planned or are underway. Dr. Alonso’s animated enthusiasm for the projects may not have been enough to keep a few of us luddites in the audience on the edge of our seats, but many of the late afternoon hangers-on were themselves scientists or budding researchers, anxious to talk science with the dynamic Doctor Alonso.

Even using lay terminology, Alonso’s efforts to shine a light of nuclear astrophysics knowledge into the dark recesses of a few unscientific minds in the audience was probably fruitless. But his unrestricted enthusiasm and lively exchanges with tekkies in the audience was almost mesmerizing. “Fuzzy science” took on a somewhat different meaning as the good doctor covered the scientific landscape all the way from the “Coulomb Barrier” and “Gamow Peak” (which are not remote holiday getaways) all the way to “Neutrino Double Beta Decay!” And we’re still in the dark regarding planned “Dark Matter” experiments.

Nonetheless, this was a rare afternoon of enlightenment – even if much of the scientific gobbledy-gook flew over the head of this History major.

We’d gladly camp out on the doorstep of the Adams Museum for the opportunity to participate in another such session. For Mary Kopco and the folks at The Adams Museum and House, it was another excellent event – helping to inform and inspire area residents about the wealth of history and resources in the Black Hills. Resources that will one day likely include a fully-operational, world class deep underground laboratory.

And then it really won’t be over. It’ll be just the beginning.

Far from the sea: Dewey, South Dakota

2009-11-06T01:07:00.013-07:00

Whether or not there was a veteran of the Spanish-American War living in southwest Custer County in the early 1900s, we don’t know. But there was someone with enough regard for Admiral of the Navy George Dewey to name a town after the military hero.

Fifth generation resident JoAnn Boggs shared that and other stories about Dewey, South Dakota this week (11/3/09) during the November meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society at the Senior Citizens Center. Boggs and her husband ranch near the Custer County hamlet – and they also run a saw mill and pellet plant.

Boggs’ interest in genealogy helped her uncover the fascinating story of Dewey, which is nestled along the Burlington Northern Railroad tracks close to the Wyoming border in Custer County. It’s about 40 miles west of Custer on the flatland just west of Elk Mountain.

“Go to the edge of the earth, turn around and go back a quarter of a mile, and you’re there!” says Boggs, quoting another resident of Dewey.

Boggs says her ancestors arrived in the county in 1878 at about the same time that the S & G Ranch was formed there by the Union Cattle Company out of Laramie, Wyoming. It was one of five major ranches in the region, according to Boggs, and once ran as many as 10,000 head of cattle. But the blizzard of 1888 forced the ranch into receivership, ending up in the hands of Goshen Irrigation, which – says Boggs – was a part of the Union Cattle Company!

Thanks to the availability of water in the area, the Burlington & Missouri Railroad chose to build a station and stockyard at the S & G in 1889. Boggs says the facility was important to the area, and it rivaled Belle Fourche as a livestock shipping center for a time.

While there was a post office for a short period in 1899, it was moved to Edgemont until about five years later when mail service returned to the community, and the name Dewey was chosen for the post office. By 1908, the railroad station also changed its name to Dewey.

Boggs recounted the creative ways that some couples would file for homesteads before getting married, thus providing them with larger property holdings after marriage. It also gave rise to a home being built on skids, allowing it to be moved back and forth from one property to the other, thus assisting the homesteaders to “prove up” their land as required by the government.

While there were never many buildings in Dewey, it did have a general store, post office, and school. Hard times and lightning have seen the demise of several buildings, though one of the older homes still stands in the community. JoAnn Boggs has agreed to share some of her photographs with us, and we'll post them to our history gallery when we receive them.

Ranching remains important to the region, and Dewey still feels the rumble of some 60 to 70 coal trains per day passing through – but never stopping – at the old town.

Bentonite was once important to the region, but no more. Boggs says uranium exploration has spurred new activity in the area.

The Spearfish Area Historical Society expressed appreciation that Ms. Boggs would make the 115 mile trek to Spearfish for the program, which sparked many questions from the audience. As always, there were treats and good conversation following the presentation.

The next meeting will feature Leo Orme sharing photos and stories about the Barns of Lawrence County. Mark your calendar for 7:30 p.m., Tuesday, December 1st!

Eagles nest in Black Hills

2009-09-09T11:22:00.007-06:00

After walks in rain and fog earlier this summer, hikers on the final Black Hills National Forest Moon Walk for 2009 enjoyed perfect weather! Nearly 160 people turned out for the short trek to the north shore of Deerfield Reservoir west of Hill City last Saturday (9/5/09) to learn about bald eagles. That may not be a record number of hikers, but it certainly exceeds numbers we’ve seen this year.

It’s a testament to a wonderful program sponsored by the U.S. Forest Service. While the Forest Service gets thumped alongside its head for a variety of decisions it has made across the country, they surely deserve a pat on the back for their Moon Walk program.

Of course, the monthly hikes – scheduled around full moons during the summer months – give USFS personnel a chance to mend political fences and increase public understanding about the terrific resource available to citizens in this region: the Black Hills National Forest. They’ve been doing the walks for 14 years, according to Amy Ballard, who’s been coordinating the events since their inception,

Our guide for the September outing was Lou Conroy, a native South Dakotan who grew up at Pine Ridge and later earned a degree in Biology from Black Hills State University in Spearfish. A wildlife biologist out of the Mystic District office, Conroy also has a Master’s degree from Colorado State University in Fort Collins and has been with the Forest Service for some 12 years.

The real stars of this Moon Walk were bald eagles. Alas, they were in absentia, but that didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of Conroy or the throng of hikers who eagerly listened to the story about bald eagles and the discovery of their nesting at Deerfield Reservoir – believed to be a first in the Black Hills.

Perched in the trees along the north edge of Deerfield Reservoir is a nest that Conroy and his cohorts say is the first nesting site for bald eagles in the Black Hills. While it’s fairly common to see bald eagles wintering in this region, it’s a first to find them nesting and raising their young here.

Conroy says the Deerfield Reservoir nest was started in 2007, but then abandoned for some unknown reason. The bald eagles came back in 2008 and were successful in raising at least one eaglet that flew from the nest. Observers were anxious to see similar results this spring.

“Everything was on schedule this year, but by the second week in May they were gone,” said Conroy, who believes that April and May storms may have caused a problem in the nest. Whatever the reason, the nest was again abandoned, but hopes are high that the eagles will return and begin the nesting process again this winter.

You’ll find more information and photographs of the “Bald Eagles” Moon Walk to Deerfield Reservoir in our Moon Walk Gallery.

A tip of the hat to Amy Ballard and the many other Forest Service specialists who contributed to another great year of Moon Walks across the Black Hills National Forest.

We’re already anxious to see the schedule for next year – perhaps visiting some new locations and re-visiting other favorites for 2010.

Partners saving Meeker Ranch

2009-08-11T11:00:00.024-06:00

The weather simply wasn't cooperating.

Early evening rain and lightning nearly caused cancellation of the August Moon Walk to the historic Meeker Ranch homestead near Custer on Saturday (8/8/09). But Mother Nature relented, and about 100 people weathered the storm to enjoy another terrific educational hike sponsored by the U.S. Forest Service.

At first, the weather was sunny and mild, followed by clouds, rain, and then – the bane of all hikers – lightning! They tell us that only lightning will force cancellation of a Moon Walk. Fortunately, the small storm pushed rapidly through the hills east of Custer, and by 7:15, skies were clearing. It turned out to be a delightful evening for a hike – even with a few pesky mosquitoes nipping at our necks.

This place has been the catalyst for some interesting partnerships.

Five years ago this month – August 2004 – the Meeker Creek Habitat Conservation Project celebrated a partnership between the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, the U.S. Forest Service, and the Ina Davis family. The goal was to conserve the 278-acre parcel of land known as Meeker Ranch.

But it wasn’t until 2008 that the ranch captured more widespread attention. That’s when well-known Black Hills artist Jon Crane (left) helped elevate it into public consciousness. Crane’s advocacy in getting the Forest Service to alter plans to either burn down or tear down buildings on the scenic ranch had all the elements of a good news story. Bernie Hunhoff wrote one such story for the March/April 2008 edition of South Dakota Magazine.

Crane, like most of us, was apparently mesmerized by the beauty of the ranch, and enlisted others – including the media – to get the government to reconsider its initial plan to get rid of buildings on the ranch. The Forest Service was confronted with a myriad of safety and liability issues; retaining the buildings and fixing them up would be costly.

One senses that the road to the current “partnership” between the U.S. Forest Service and the Black Hills Historic Preservation Trust – which Crane helped organize – was probably full of potholes and detours. Nonetheless, there now seems to be a united effort to preserve and restore the Meeker Ranch property, including volunteers and private contributions.

As one meanders down the road to the open meadow that is home to the Meeker Ranch, it’s easy to see how Jon Crane, and all of us, could fall in love with this place. Crane has also dedicated a portion of his Meeker Ranch artwork sales to help with restoration.

On this particular cool August evening, Forest Service archaeologist Matt Padilla (left) was our Moon Walk guide, providing not only a good overview of Meeker Ranch history – but sharing a few early photographs of the ranch and its founder, Frank Cunningham Meeker.

Born in Ohio, Meeker made his way west in the late 1870s and worked on cattle drives from Texas to the northern Plains. Padilla says the young Meeker also worked as a Pony Express rider before pursuing a ranch of his own in the Black Hills. After working on a ranch south of Custer, he homesteaded on the current ranch site in 1882. They called it “Willow Creek.”

According to Frank Meeker's granddaughter, Nancy Suzanne Meeker Wolfe, title to the ranch passed from the Meeker family to Dave and Iney Davis in May of 1973. Some 31 years later, in 2004, the property was purchased by the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, which subsequently sold it to the U.S. Forest Service. All have seemingly agreed to the Davis’ intent that the land not be developed. Less certain was how to deal with the buildings.

Perhaps the oldest building on the surviving ranch site is the Meeker home, built in 1887. Several additions have been built over the years, but no one has lived in the structure for more than 50 years. There’s a cool cabin about a half mile southwest of the main house, and it’s there that the Davis family – Dave and Ina – chose to live in the 1950s.

Each of the buildings on the Meeker Ranch has its own story – and this Moon Walk stirred up considerable interest in the venerable ranch. The huge turnout for the August event (including U.S. Forest Service District Ranger Craig Bobzien and his wife) is a testament to its popularity.

Our Moon Walk Gallery offers several photos and a bit more information. More importantly, perhaps it’ll stir your curiosity and put you on the road to Custer to explore the remarkable Meeker Ranch.

Black Hills caves still open!

2009-07-16T07:39:00.012-06:00

Hundreds of caves in the eastern United States have been closed in an effort to control a fungus that has killed more than a half-million bats. It seems that a mysterious fungus – dubbed “white nose syndrome” has taken a heavy toll among the flying mammals.

Fortunately, caves throughout the Black Hills National Forest remain open to the public.

Perhaps we dozed during a network newscast – or maybe this wildlife threat just couldn’t compete with the death of Michael Jackson and media obsession with all things Palin. In any event, it wasn’t until our participation in the latest Black Hills Forest Service Moon Walk (7/11/09) to Ice Cave that we learned about this mysterious fungus that is wreaking havoc on bats across much of the country.

Bats seem to have gotten an undeserved reputation over the years. Perhaps it’s all Count Dracula’s fault – those many scary stories and movies about “vampire bats.” The fact of the matter is that bats are in important part of the eco-system, particularly as predators of insects. On this Moon Walk, we learned that Black Hills caves provide critical roosting habitat for bats. A bat may consume as many as one thousand mosquitoes per day. Now that’s a public service! While we didn’t see any bats in Ice Cave – and Wind Cave reportedly has very few bats – Jewel Cave is said to be home to thousands of bats at different times of the year.

In addition to bats, a wide variety of other animals find refuge in caves, including badgers, porcupines, bushy-tailed woodrats and salamanders, among others.

Learning about bats – and their favorite habitat, caves – was a real bonus treat for the 150 or so people who braved the gravel Forest Service roads west of Custer to reach a parking lot near Gillette Canyon and hike up to Ice Cave. We've included several photos in this Moon Walk Gallery.

Every time we go on these walks, we think it’s better than the last. Fact is, each gathering offers special insight into the remarkable diversity of the Black Hills and helps rekindle our interest in the magnificent outdoor environment we enjoy in this region of the country.

This time, coordinator Amy Ballard introduced us to Brad Phillips, a Forest Service wildlife biologist who grew up and went to school in California, but who has found a home and lots of interests in the Black Hills.

Phillips led our group to Ice Cave, which we found is one of lots of caves with such a name. Since it’s mid-summer, we weren’t able to gaze upon any huge ice columns climbing from the floor to the roof of the cave – but we did find ice glazed on the floor of the roomy cave.

Well, I say “roomy,” since it’s a darn sight larger than Blue Rock cave in the hills just south of Chadron, Nebraska where we grew up. But it’s miniscule when compared to the likes of Jewel Cave or Wind Cave, two roomy caverns nestled in the southern part of the Hills. Both of these treasures are considered among the most special caves in the world. There are reportedly more than 100 caves carved out of the limestone formations throughout the Black Hills.

It was an eye-opener to learn that learn that Jewel cave is the second longest cave in the world. My guess at just how long the cave is fell woefully short. I think it was something like “a mile.” National Park Service officials say the cave – located west of Custer just off U.S. Highway 16 – is more than 146 miles long!

What’s NOT surprising is that these Moon Walks are so popular. We find them invigorating and informative. Already, we’re looking forward to the August 8th jaunt to the Meeker Ranch Homestead near of Custer. Get the full Moon Walk schedule and more information by going to the U.S. Forest Service Black Hills website. Mark your calendar and join us!

Fun on a foggy flume trail

2009-06-08T15:27:00.020-06:00

Hiking in the Black Hills is always fun – and especially when you’re able to learn something about the rich mining heritage of the region.

With a bit of reluctant anticipation, we bundled up and took off Saturday afternoon (6/6/09) for the Upper Spring Creek trail head about 30 minutes driving time southwest of Rapid City. I say “reluctant,” since the weather page of the Rapid City Journal had earlier predicted high temperatures in the 80s, but Mother Nature was delivering a decidedly cooler reception. I think the folks at the Journal got their forecasts mixed up. As we arrived at the trail head for the second in the 2009 Moon Walk series hosted by the U.S. Forest Service, there was a very light mist and the threat of rain. The temperature was in the low 40s.

After an enjoyable but wet trek last month to Camp Bob Marshall near Custer, we were beginning to think the Moon Walk series is haunted by nasty weather. Not to worry, however, since mere rain won’t cancel a scheduled Moon Walk – only lightning. Nonetheless, we were more than just a bit wary as we wound our way along Sheridan Lake Road and it kept getting foggier and foggier. This seemed to be a bad omen.

Bad omen or not, about 100 people showed up at the trail head. They would not be disappointed.

After a brief introduction by USFS Recreation Forester Amy Ballard, we started our hike across a narrow Spring Creek bridge and began a short but mildly steep climb up toward the old Rockerville Flume Trail.

Our guide was Colorado native Michael Salisbury, an archaelogist and historian based at the Mystic Ranger Station on the Black Hills National Forest. By the time we reached the flume trail, the hillsides were almost surreal, wrapped in a glowing fog that emitted a low-key but even light across the gulches.

Then Ranger Salisbury gave us a breather as he told the story of the Rockerville Flume.

So, just what is a flume? Why was it important to gold miners? And why – more than a century later – was this curious group of people traipsing around in the fog along an old flume trail?

A few answers – along with some “foggy photos” -- are included in our June 2009 Moon Walk Gallery. Our thanks to the Minnilusa Historical Association for allowing us to use some of the few remaining photographs of the flume.

After you browse through the notes and photos in the album, mark your calendar for the next Moon Walk at 7:00 p.m. on Saturday, July 11th. It's the Underground Wildnerness at Ice Cave near Custer. You'll get an update about the diseases that are taking a big toll on bats, and you'll learn about the limestone formations that create caves in the Hills.

And maybe you'll see that full moon!

Moon Walks...no lunar landers needed

2009-05-16T18:00:00.014-06:00

What’s a Moon Walk?

A fellow ham radio operator asked me that question last Saturday (5/9/09) as Karen and I were on our way to a lake near Custer for just such an event. What I’ve written below is a general summary of my response to that question.

When we arrived in the Black Hills a few years ago, I read about these curious 'Moon Walks" in local newspapers. Sponsored by the U.S. Forest Service and the Black Hills Parks and Forest Association, the walks are organized to allow folks who have an interest in the Hills – and who have the mobility to participate in short hikes – a terrific opportunity to visit many locales throughout the Black Hills.

Want to know more about the rich history of mining in the Hills? Curious about fire lookout towers? Interested in gaining a wealth of knowledge about elk, bald eagles, and mountain lions? How about getting better acquainted with the western lore of the region? These are among the many topics that have been covered – or will be covered – in the Moon Walks. Or, perhaps you’re simply interested in soaking up some of the beauty that lures people to this majestic region. Whatever tickles your fancy, you’ll likely enjoy these short forays into the hills.

Amy Ballard, Recreation Forester with the U.S. Forest Service, seems to be a prime instigator of these hikes – always scheduled for 7:00 p.m. on spring and summer Saturdays adjacent to a full moon. They generally last about 1-2 hours. The Forest Service suggests that participants dress for “unexpected weather and cooler nighttime temperatures,” which seems invariably to occur! They don’t cancel the events due to rain – but they’ll call it off if there’s lightning in the vicinity.

About 90 folks, on average, show up for most Moon Walks, so we’ve learned to go a bit early to get a convenient parking place. Forest Service officials say that more than 10,000 people have partcipated in the walks since they began back in 1996.

For 2009, we hope to participate in most, if not all, of the Moon Walks, and we’ll share a few pictures and notes about each of our outings. We start with the May 9th trek to Camp Bob Marshall, just a few miles east of Custer. Thousands of young South Dakotans have enjoyed this marvelous facility, which was constructed in 1938-1940 by the Civilian Conservation Corps as a youth camp. Our Moon Walk Gallery our “virtual” visit to Camp Bob Marshall and to learn more about the Civilian Conservation Corps.

On June 6th, hikers will walk part of the Rockerville Flume below Sheridan Lake and learn about the 20-mile flume and its role in regional mining. On July 11th, it’s off to the southern Hills to learn about the Underground Wilderness. Then it’s back to the Custer area on August 8th to learn about early homesteaders and continuing efforts to provide elk habitat on the old Meeker Ranch Homestead. The final outing of the season will be September 5th for a walk near Deerfield Reservoir west of Hill City to gain some insight – and perhaps a peek – and Bald Eagles.

You'll find more information at the U.S. Forest Service web site. We hope to see you on the trail!

Prohibition in South Dakota

2009-05-10T15:31:00.008-06:00

One long-time Spearfish resident remembered when the Women’s Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) was a big deal in the region, and she – along with lots of other high school students of the 1950s – signed pledges not to consume alcohol.

That was one of many reminiscences shared with the audience last Tuesday (5/7/09) at the May meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society – spurred by another delightful program from Linfred Schuttler, this time on the topic of Prohibition in South Dakota and its lingering legacy.

Some 75 attendees convened in the Spearfish Senior Citizens Center for the session, which was the final regularly scheduled meeting for 2009.

Schuttler noted that the first prohibition (or temperance) law in Dakota Territory was passed in October of 1889, but the law lacked any enforcement provisions. When the first South Dakota legislature met in 1890, they passed an enforcement bill that had enough bite to cause the closing of two saloons in Spearfish – but none in Deadwood!

Eventually, "package stores" gained favor, offering booze by the bottle -- if not by the drink. However, the Attorney-General cited them as "nuisances" and ordered them closed. Some continued to operate under a drugstore license, offering spirits for "medicinal purposes." The Queen City Mail observed that many folks had stocked up on the banned spirits and would likely not feel the impact of prohibition "for several weeks." Soon, municipalities were taxing package stores to generate revenue, causing something of a furor in the community, since such stores were presumably operating illegally in the first place.

Since Wyoming had no temperance laws, Schuttler said that the border town of Beulah, Wyoming, “came to the aid of suffering South Dakotans...and became a perpetual oasis for thirsty Dakotans.” Its citizens have continued to make similar treks over the ensuing years, seeking everything from Coors beer and colored oleomargarine to gasoline and – most recently – cigarettes.

In the wild 1880s, “Saloons in Deadwood hardly even made a pretense to close saloons after temperance laws were passed,” said Schuttler. It was the kind of unbridled raucous behavior that came to be associated with Deadwood over the years.

Even the legendary Carrie Nation couldn’t quell South Dakota’s appetite for alcohol, despite visits to South Dakota, including two to Spearfish.

You’ll find more information about Schuttler’s talk, along with details about the election of officers for the Spearfish Area Historical Society, by going to our History Photo Gallery.

While the society now takes a few months vacation from regularly-scheduled meetings, there's a special opportunity for members to tour the newly-refurbished railroad roundhouse in Lead later this month. The tours will be conducted at noon, 1:00 p.m., and 2:00 p.m. on Saturday, May 16th especially for members of the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

This opportunity is similar to one offered last October by Wayne Paananen to members of the Lawrence County Historical Society. That was a terrific tour, but we understand that much more work has been done to the old Lead Roundhouse, which served the Black Hills and Fort Pierre Railroad for many years. It promises to be a vibrant new historic attraction in the northern Black Hills, so this will be a rare opportunity for SAHS members to get their own sneak preview!

Well done, Belle Fourche!

2009-04-29T10:53:00.005-06:00

When we chose to retire in the northern Black Hills four years ago, we had lots of good reasons. The cultural and sporting events at Black Hills State University, beautiful Spearfish Canyon, Black Hills National Forest, and medical facilities in Rapid City and Ellsworth Air Force Base were among them. For us, Belle Fourche was NOT a factor in luring us here.

Then, nearly two years ago, we had an epiphany and revealed it in this old Black Hills Monitor posting.

In the two years since, we’ve grown to like Belle Fourche even more.

Last night (4/28/09) was the frosting on the cake that will keep us going back to Belle Fourche for more.

A full-house at the Belle Fourche Community Center reveled in one of the best Big Band concerts we’ve ever seen – and we’ve seen more than a few in Nebraska, Oklahoma, Mississippi and Pennsylvania over the past four decades.

The Jimmy Dorsey Orchestra, led by the talented and amiable Bill Tole from Pittsburgh, gave the crowd a toe-tapping performance that was a fitting finale to the 2008-09 Center of the Nation Concert Series. From Green Eyes and Amapola to June Night and So Rare, the 14-member orchestra – joined by vocalist Nancy Knorr – gave the audience a happy trip down memory lane. Too, it was heartwarming to see the orchestra populated not just by veterans like Nole, but several young musicians who were likely not even born by the time Jimmy Dorsey passed away in 1957.

Concerts like the one we enjoyed last night don’t just happen. They’re the product of a vision and lots of hard work by Belle Fourche citizens.

Let’s name names. All of the members of the concert association Board of Directors deserve credit. Board President Barry Pitt has served as emcee for a season of great concerts, including the Frank Vignola Quintent, Trumpet Invasion, Just Friends, Counterpoint, and – of course – Jimmy Dorsey! Good friend Bill Kunerth -- among the board members -- capably handled publicity again this year for the association!

Many sponsors like Lindstad Trout Farm & Lindstad Alignment and Brake (which was a sponsor for the Dorsey concert) are important. Black Hills Pioneer/Prospector, KBFS/KYDT Radio, Belle Fourche Post & Bee, and First Western Bank have all been strong supporters of the concerts and deserve a special “Thank You”!

A big tip of the hat to dozens of Benefactors, Patrons, Donors and Contributors, without whom this series likely couldn’t survive. Most importantly, the hundreds of people who purchase tickets that support the series. Even with the modest increase announced for next year, this is one of the best bargains in the northern Black Hills! Highway 85 between Belle Fourche and Spearfish is a busy road as northern Hills residents outside of Belle burn a path back and forth on concert evenings!

Belle Fourche can be rightfully proud of the Center of the Nation Concert Series!

This is spring?

2009-04-26T22:17:00.008-06:00

After one of the wettest winters on record, the northern Black Hills of South Dakota continues to have some unusual weather.

Just three days ago (4/23/09) Spearfish hit a record high April temperature of 84 degrees. This information (along with an abundance of weather data that only an old TV weatherman or weather junkie might fully appreciate) can be found at the Tmax Weather Center.

By today (4/26/09) snowfall was again prevalent throughout the northern hills. We took a ride up scenic Spearfish Canyon and caught a glimpse of Bridal Veil Falls, which is shown here and seems to be flowing at near record amounts. It was a veritable "winter wonderland" throughout the canyon -- and well worth the drive for those in the immediate area. But hurry, it can't last long -- after all, we are in the second month of spring!

Bullock the businessman

2009-04-15T15:17:00.017-06:00

Historian David Wolff says he originally wasn’t much interested in famed Dakota lawman Seth Bullock. But the more he learned about Bullock and his many political and business pursuits, the more enthusiastic he became about finding out more. At different stages of his life, Bullock was a sheriff, a banker, a rancher and a miner.

Wolff, an Associate Professor of History at Black Hills State University, has just completed Seth Bullock: Black Hills Lawman, a book that chronicles the life of the legendary Bullock It was published by the South Dakota State Historical Society Press and should soon be available at most bookstores across the region.

On Tuesday evening (4/7/09) at the Spearfish Area Historical Society meeting, Wolff focused on Bullock’s many business pursuits – almost all of them busts. This was something of an encore presentation for Wolff, since he had already spoken to the group about Seth Bullock in a 2008 program -- but that program concentrated on Bullock’s role as a lawman.

A considerable portion of Wolff’s talk this month further revealed Bullock’s close relationship with his partner Sol Star. They had befriended each other in 1871 while living in Virginia City, Montana, which was the territorial capital. Star was working for the Governor and Bullock served in the legislature.

“They bumped into each other while looking for a room – as were two other guys,” says Wolff, and they all ended up sharing an unfurnished room in Virginia City, where lodging was at a premium.

A few years later, Bullock married his childhood sweetheart from Michigan, Martha Eccles. In 1875, their daughter Madge was born.

“When Bullock decides it’s time to go to Deadwood in 1876, he doesn’t want to take his wife and new daughter…it was too rough of a place. So he sends them back to Michigan.” By 1878, his wife and second daughter, Flo, join him. Ten years later, they would add a son, Stanley, to the family.

In pursuing new opportunities in Deadwood, Bullock teamed up with his old friend Sol Star, who had also come to Dakota Territory. They would collaborate in a number of business ventures for the next couple of decades, despite the fact, says Wolff, that Bullock really didn’t want to be a businessman. He wanted to be in politics – to be a sheriff. Indeed, in 1877 with the creation of Lawrence County, Governor Pennington appointed Bullock sheriff. Most locals weren’t thrilled by the appointment of outsiders by a Governor who was far away in Yankton himself. Eventually, local citizens forced an election, which resulted in the ousting of Bullock and 10 others who were running the county. In a subsequent election, Bullock again ran for sheriff – and again he lost.

“He was aloof. He was an elitist. Even his 1919 obituary said he had no friends,” says Wolff. Out of office and with few resources, Bullock apparently decided to try earning some money.

“He tried everything.”

Among his many ventures: Star and Bullock Hardware on Main Street. Since Star had been appointed Postmaster, that was incorporated into the enterprise. After being implicated in postal corruption in 1881, Star lost his job as postmaster and focused on selling tin and metal “fireproof” materials at their hardware store.

During the 1880s, Bullock and Star expanded their hardware business to Billings, Miles City, Sundance, Sturgis, and Carbonate – as many as eight stores. But by 1890, Bullock was tiring of the business, and Star – who had money and was the majority partner – dissolved the partnership. Wolff speculated that it was probably because Bullock spend too much money without any significant returns.

Then Bullock turned to ranching and banking -- even mining. Read more about those endeavors and more from David Wolff’s presentation on Seth Bullock by visiting the History Photo Gallery section of Black Hills Journal.

The next meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society will be at 7:30 p.m., Tuesday, May 5, 2009 at the Senior Citizen’s Center in Spearfish. Linfred Schuttler returns with a program entitled Prohibition in South Dakota.

Once again, we express our appreciation to Ray and Darlene Telkamp of Spearfish for audio recording this program so that we might share highlights with you. Thanks, Ray and Darlene!

Old Spearfish High School remembered

2009-03-23T20:31:00.013-06:00

NOTE: We were unable to attend the March 2009 meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society; fortunately, good friends Ray and Darlene Telkamp agreed to audio record the session, allowing us to later hear the presentation and craft the following posting. Many thanks Ray and Darlene!

The memory machines were in full operation earlier this month (3/09) when members of the Spearfish Area Historical Society – many of them Spearfish High School grads of yesteryear – gathered at the Senior Citizen Center to hear Paul Higbee talk about the history of the old school.

Higbee, himself a Spearfish grad, is well-known across the region as a superb writer, and he gave another solid presentation. But many in the audience offered up their own memories, including several about “Fight Corner” at 8th and Illinois, where kids took their disputes for an early-day version of “conflict resolution.”

Most of the discussion related to the 85-year-old brick building that stands in the shadow of Lookout Mountain on the east side of Spearfish. Known today as “East Elementary,” it was built in 1926 and was the first Spearfish High School -- a function it served for more than 53 years.

Higbee’s presentation recalled those days even before the old high school building, reaching back to 1883, when the state normal school was begun. There was no separate high school building in Spearfish. Back in those days, students received their elementary and secondary education at the old normal school.

That was not an arrangement that gained much favor among the citizens of Deadwood, Lead, Belle Fourche, and elsewhere. They were concerned that their tax dollars were supporting not only their own local school, but also a normal school in Spearfish -- and the education of Spearfish elementary and high school kids!

Of course, many locals were desirous of their own school, and so it was that specific planning for a building up on Illinois Street was begun in 1923. City Supervisor Martin Thompson, who was also a contractor, played a key role in construction of the building. A carpenter on the job was J. Howard Kramer, later educated at the University of Iowa, and who would eventually become superintendent of the school that he had helped build!

Even in those early days, the school mascot was a Spartan, although there was much consternation in earlier the years as to the exact school colors. They ranged from maroon and gray to red and white.

Perhaps someone can offer some photographs of old Spearfish High School that we might add to this posting? We have linked to a few images in our History Gallery – contemporary though they are – that might help to tell the story of this venerable structure that was home to so many memories. There’s additional information, too, from Paul Higbee’s excellent presentation.

Please send us an e-mail at galey@rushmore.com if you can share with us a few historic photos of old Spearfish High School! And thanks again to Darlene and Ray Telkamp for their assistance with this posting.

Provine returned to the "wild west"

2009-03-19T10:01:00.006-06:00

This really isn’t so much South Dakota history as it is South Dakota trivia.

While doing a bit of research on the now-defunct print version of the Seattle Post-Intelligencer newspaper, I happened across an old photo of a damsel cheering for the University of Washington in a 1954 football game against the Oregon State “Ducks.” She was identified only as “Dotty” Provine.

Provine is not your everyday surname in Seattle – or in the Black Hills of South Dakota, where one-time actress “Dorothy” Provine was born. After checking further, I became convinced that the cheering Miss Provine at UW was the same attractive blonde as the gal from Deadwood who went on to have a fairly successful career in motion pictures and television. Her TV credits included a lead in the 1960 series “The Roaring ‘20s.”

For me, her most memorable performance was in the Blake Edwards film “The Great Race,” a segment of which is offered below. It not only refreshed my memory about Dorothy Provine, it was a reminder of what a fun movie this was. The 1965 musical (Henry Mancini) comedy starred – among others – Tony Curtis, Natalie Wood, Keenan Wynn, Denver Pyle, Peter Falk, Larry Storch, and – my favorite – Jack Lemmon as the irrepressible Dr. Fate. Dorothy Provine is featured here as Lily Olay.

Somehow, I can imagine Dorothy Provine singing in a Deadwood dance hall similar to what's seen here (without the smoking, of course!)

History through penny postcards

2009-02-23T14:26:00.014-07:00

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and when it comes to historical photographs, we believe it really is true. We've long been intrigued by old photographs, and it was a real treat to sit in on the presentation given by Paul Horsted late last year to the Spearfish Area Historical Society. We shared a few photos and comments about his excellent program in an earlier posting in Black Hills Journal. Paul's skill at pairing contemporary photos with historical photos -- many more than 100 years old -- is truly remarkable.

There's another source for old photographs that you should know about.

U.S. GenWeb, a popular site among genealogists, offers a wide range of resources. One that we had seen some months ago -- but haven't used much -- came across our desk again recently, thanks to Dan Contonis of Spearfish.

It focuses upon old picture postcards that have historical value, and it's quite a treasure trove. Shown above is a postcard depicting a view of old Deadwood.

Of course, there are many more of these penny postcards from all across South Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming, and the entire country. It's a fun site and easy to get lost in it for hours. Shown here is a black and white depiction of the original Latchstring Inn up in Spearfish Canyon.

There are numerous other cards capturing scenes from throughout the Black Hills. You can check them out on this page of U.S. GenWeb penny postcards. Give it a try!

Jay Gorham, 91, a Silent Key

2009-02-17T13:50:00.012-07:00

In the world of amateur radio so loved by our friend Jay Gorham, a “Silent Key” is the term used to recognize those ham operators who have passed away. It hearkens back to a day when telegrapher keys were on the cutting edge of technology, almost magically filling telegraph lines and the ether with Morse Code -- a mode still used by many hamy operators.

Jay Ellis Gorham of Spearfish joined the ranks of Silent Keys on Thursday, February 12, 2009. He was 91 years old.

Born in Dunlap, Iowa, Jay’s family moved to Spearfish in 1922, when he was four years old. Except for a few years in Washington state and Navy service during World War II, Jay called Spearfish home. Here’s a full obituary for Jay as it appeared in the Black Hills Pioneer, recounting some of his many accomplishments and affiliations. A standout football player at Black Hills Normal School in the 1930s, Jay was later a radar operator in the Navy, returning to Spearfish after the war to begin a 30-year career as a partner and then owner of Gorham Brothers Welding and Machine Shop.

As seems to be the case with so many good people, Jay’s diverse interests were transcended by his love and affection for his wife, children, and grandchildren. He enjoyed following his children’s activities, and found joy himself in activities randing from gardening and bowling to hunting and golf.

He loved history and was a frequent attendee at meetings of the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

Jay was heavily involved in the community – everything from being a long-time volunteer fireman to membership in the American Legion and St. Joseph’s Catholic Church. We knew Jay only for the past few years through our shared interest in amateur radio. He was one of the first people I met when retiring to Spearfish in 2005, and he quickly became one of my favorites. Thanks to fellow ham Bob Weaver for sharing the picture at right of Jay in his "ham shack." Last year, when I decided to erect an antenna mast, Jay volunteered some pipe and tools to help me accomplish the job – in addition to offering some sage advice on how to best accomplish the task. As I mount a new HF antenna on the mast this spring, I’ll be saying a special “thank you” to Jay Gorham.

To Jay’s wife, Agnes, and their entire family, we extend our deep condolences. He is gone but will not be forgotten by the many people whose lives he touched in a most wonderful way.

73 to our good friend Jay.

"Biker Bill" and the Mickelson Trail

2009-02-13T15:53:00.002-07:00

We were pleasantly surprised to be able to catch up with an old broadcasting friend the other day.

Bill Campbell and his wife Katherine Ann changed ZIP codes last year, moving from Montana to northern California. A veteran broadcaster from West Virginia, Bill and I first crossed paths about 25 years ago when he was managing a station in the Idaho Public Television network, and I was with South Dakota Public Broadcasting. I've followed his career with great interest as he took over the public TV station in Medford, Oregon, where he retired a few years back.

His move to Montana soon found Bill bicycling more and becoming heavily involved in Rotary, ending his stint as District Governor just last year. It was during their Montana residency that Bill biked from White Sulphur Springs, Montana, to Chicago, Illinois. Karen and I met him in Bowman, North Dakota for a short visit with a side trip to Medora for dinner. Some months later, Bill and I biked the 109-mile Mickelson Trail through the Black Hills of South Dakota. We had great fun, and it certainly gave this old soul a bunch of fond memories!

The photo at right was taken in October 2006 at the outset of our trek from Deadwood to Edgemont. "Biker Bill" is on the left. My bride, Karen, hauled us to the starting line and provided some much-appreciated trail support when we ran in to difficulty near Hill City.....but that's another story!

A note this holiday season from Bill and Katherine Ann Campbell told of their move to northern California, and one of Bill's latest pursuits: newspaper columnist! Although it's a rarity in these tough days for newspapers, the Inter Mountain News posts all of its old issues on the web, and they're accessible for free! Thus, I've been able to catch up on Bill's activities. The column is not simply a bicycling column, but a chronicle of many items of interest in the "Inter Mountain" region of northern California.

I check up on Bill from time to time by visiting the The Inter Mountain News website and clicking on the front page image. Scroll down to find the "Biker Bill" column. It's a good read!

James Whitmore and Crazy Horse

2009-02-08T15:59:00.016-07:00

Actor James Whitmore died Friday (2/6/09) at his Malibu, California home. He was 87. His stage and television credits include excellent performances as humorist Will Rogers, and Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and Harry Truman.

We’ve written about Whitmore a couple of times over the past two years – admiring his unbridled enthusiasm and his seemingly boundless talents on stage and in television and film. I’ll never forget seeing his wonderful performance at the Oklahoma State University Seretean Center in the 1970s. I described that event in this 2007 posting on our Radio-TV website. Whitmore's film credits include a bevy of old westerns, but his repertoire was broad and included a fine portrayal of Navy Admiral William "Bull" Halsey in Tora, Tora, Tora, one of the better films about World War II. In 1968 he had a key role in Planet of the Apes. One of his last movies was The Shawshank Redemption.

Until his passing on Friday, I didn’t know about Whitmore's involvement with the Crazy Horse Memorial here in South Dakota. Apparently, he was an ardent supporter of the project and hosted awareness and fundraising events at his home. According to the Rapid City Journal, Whitmore was a speaker at the memorial’s 50th anniversary celebration that dedicated the completed face carving.

Surfing around the internet, I found several samples of Whitmore’s work. One that is most memorable was his 1975 portrayal of President Harry S. Truman. And in yet another video -- imbedded below -- Whitmore shared a bit of his personal view regarding freedom of religion.

Agree with those views or not, Whitmore was a class act in the world of show business.

...on a Badlands Ranch

2009-02-04T11:53:00.011-07:00

Growing up on a ranch in the Badlands near Kadoka was a memorable experience for Claudia Little.

After getting married and raising two children, she went back to school at Northern State in Aberdeen, followed by a long career in the classroom helping children develop a “love of learning.”

Now she’s sharing her childhood experiences through a pair of books and a series of presentations in the northern Hills. Her latest was Tuesday night (2/3/09) at the Spearfish Senior Citizens Center for members of the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

More than a century ago, her grandparents – immigrants from Germany – were living in Kadoka. Having learned both English and Lakota, her grandfather became a trader on the reservation and acquired land. And so it was that the family moved onto a ranch about 30 miles south of Kadoka, choosing a spot near Pass Creek, because "grandpa had learned in Iowa that tornadoes never strike at the fork of two creeks.” They soon moved in to a log house with a thatched roof, and he witched for a well – a well that is still good 100 years later.

A generation later – by the 1940s – Claudia’s father was operating the ranch, and she learned first-hand what it was like “Growing up on a Badlands Ranch,” the topic of her presentation to the historical society. She recounted her mother’s activities on the ranch, where “from sun to sun, the work's never done,” including huge breakfasts and large dinners, too, for some 15 people every day.

“Monday was wash day, Tuesday was ironing, and on Wednesdays we hung the rugs on the line and beat them to death.” Saturdays were reserved for baking, making enough bread to last for a week. Occasionally, she’d get to help her dad in the field, but also learned to help her mom in the kitchen, where at age 8 or 9 she learned to bake a pie.

“I detested having to gather eggs,” said Little, who recounted the displeasure of getting pecked by hens that weren’t happy to have her in the vicinity.

Claudia Little’s early education in a one-room country schoolhouse helped lay the foundation for a life-time of learning. The building not only served as a school, but it was a church and community center, and Saturday nights it was a hotbed of dancing!

Her family still owns the “202 Ranch” and still visits there occasionally. Little says growing up on the ranch was a wonderful experience, and she wanted to share with her experiences with her own children, so she has written two books -- Patches and Mudpies.

Go to our History Gallery for photographs and more information about Claudia Little’s presentation on growing up on a Badlands Ranch.

Author Paul Higbee returns to the Spearfish Area Historical Society on Tuesday, March 3rd for a glimpse of “Spearfish High School from the 1920s to the present.”

Horsted on photos - Then & Now

2009-01-07T12:17:00.008-07:00

Photographer Paul Horsted of Custer has unveiled new information about an early-day photographer with the Custer expedition, William Henry Illingworth.

“We owe him (Illingworth) a lot for recording pictures of the Black Hills,” Horsted told members of the Spearfish Area Historical Society during their January meeting (1/6/09).

A near record turnout of history buffs crowded in to the Senior Citizen’s Center to see the work of Horsted and hear about his latest project. His beautiful tome The Black Hills Then & Now has become something of a collector’s item, following his 2002 book, Exploring with Custer, which mapped the 1874 Custer expedition through the Black Hills.

Once a staff photographer for the Sioux Falls Argus-Leader, Horsted later served as Chief Photographer for the South Dakota Tourism Department before becoming an independent photographer and publisher 15 years ago. Samples of his work can be found on his website www.dakotaphoto.com

Horsted’s trademark style juxtapositions contemporary photographs alongside historic photos of the hills region. It’s a technique that has won him great acclaim. But more than that, Horsted has demonstrated great skill as a researcher, adding immensely to his demonstrated photographic skills.

The Black Hills Yesterday & Today includes 150 images from some 50 photographers, including Illingworth. The photos date from mid-1870s into the 1930s. Horsted shared new information about Illingworth, noting that when he and an Illlingworth descendant tracked down the family burial site in St. Paul, Minnesota, they discovered that one of the Illingworth graves had been marked that very day!

During his presentation, Horsted not only paid homage to those photographers who’ve gone before, he gave full acknowledgement to some of those persons instrumental in his latest publication – especially his wife, Camille, who did the design work, and Ernest Grafe, who did the editing. He also expressed gratitude to the many landowners who’ve given access to their property. He noted that photographs came from many collections – and he specifically mentioned the Journey Museum in Rapid City, the Adams Museum in Deadwood, and the old photographs made available by the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

Horsted provided some insight into how he has incorporated new and emerging technologies into helping identify and locate the sites where many of the old photographs were taken. Global Positioning Satellite (GPS) and Google Earth are resources routinely tapped by Horsted. Of course, digital photography – rather than film – has become his dominant method for capturing images.

“If you can find the background, you can usually find your way to the foreground,” said Horsted, whose success at this technique is vividly documented in his books.

Horsted says it takes him about three years to research, photograph, write and publish a book. His next publication is tentatively named Crossing the Plains with Custer, a companion to his 2002 book. It will be published later this year, likely before November 1st. You'll find a few more snapshots of Horsted's January presentation in our Spearfish Area History Gallery.

Bottoms up!

2009-01-02T20:10:00.012-07:00

...that's "bottom's frozen up"!

While a few of us less hardy souls were meandering off in other states over the Christmas holiday, Spearfish Creek again demonstrated her rather unique propensity for flooding as a result of freezing under rather than freezing over. It provided quite a spectacle for the holiday season and caused more than just a little concern.

It seems that Spearfish creek freezes less often than most rivers and creeks, according to city officials, due to its fast moving water. Nonetheless, its rocky bottom tends to slow down bottom water, and when the temperatures drops like they did just before Christmas, down to -10 to -15 degrees (and lower, some folks say), the creek begins to freeze on the bottom. As the ice builds, the creek can quickly rise up out of its banks. When ice and snow up stream begin to melt, the situation can get nasty real quick.

We weren't around to witness this event, but good amateur radio friend Bob Weaver snapped several pictures and has kindly allowed us to use them here. It seems the water flooded some homes, threatened many others, and inundated the biking/walking path that snakes along with the creek, as shown here.

Wendly Pitlick's Spearfish Creek story in the Black Hills Pioneer includes a photo or two as well.

From our house to yours...

2008-12-25T13:42:00.007-07:00

There are few places on earth as beautiful as the Black Hills in winter. But we have found over the years, the spirit of Christmas is alive everywhere. From Texas to Pennsylvania.......from South Dakota to Mississippi.....we have rejoiced in the birth of Christ in many places and in many ways. We celebrate the event this year while visiting family in Colorado.

Wherever you are, we hope you find joy this holiday season and that you and your loved ones are well and warm!

Larry & Karen Miller

Another delight in the Black Hills

2008-12-02T16:51:00.019-07:00

It may not be the stage at the Metropolitan Opera or the Bayreuth Festspielhaus, but renowned operatic performer Johanna Meier appears to be having a great time giving curtain calls inside the cozy Dolls at Home Museum adjacent to the Black Hills Passion Play in south Spearfish.

The stars of the museum are the hundreds – if not thousands – of dolls and miniatures nestled throughout the museum at 435 Meier Avenue (she’s never counted them all). Members of the Spearfish Area Historical Society were treated to special tours of the museum this week (12/2/08) in conjunction with Johanna’s evening presentation to the society at the Spearfish Senior Citizen’s Center.

Meier noted that in past centuries, collecting dolls and other miniatures was the province of only the wealthy. In the 20th century, it grew rapidly and is now second only to stamp collecting in popularity, according to Meier. And while many dolls and miniatures are of porcelain, metal, and other materials, they can be creatively crafted from everyday items ranging from cardboard boxes to bottle caps.

The daughter of Clare and Josef Meier, founders of the legendary Black Hills Passion Play, Johanna grew up in Spearfish and has been “a lover of dolls all my life.” As she pursued a career in music, travel became a way of life. She made her debut with the New York City Opera and did a 15-year stint with the Metropolitan Opera, earning world-wide acclaim and rising to become a major international star. She was recognized as one of the foremost Wagnerian sopranos of her era, retiring in the mid 1990s and returning home to Spearfish with husband, Guido Della Vecchia, to run the Passion Play.

Her world travel allowed Johanna Meier an opportunity to pursue another passion: doll collecting. So it is not surprising to find a wide array of international miniatures among the colorful displays at the Dolls at Home Museum.

While it’s impossible to capture the magnificence of this collection through just a few photographs, we’ve assembled a small gallery of Dollhouse photos in our History Gallery. There are also a few shots taken during her Johanna’s evening presentation.

For her evening talk, Meier brought along a table-full of dolls and miniatures, which she delighted in describing to the audience. She also shared a favorite poem by Phyllis McGinley entitled “The Doll House.”

You might expect an international opera star to be aloof and cold. Johanna Meier is neither, and she exudes a warm and gracious personality. Of course, this is no surprise the long-time Spearfish residents, many of whom remember her from her early years growing up in the community.

Few of her international admirers probably know of Johanna’s deep fondness for collecting miniatures – but we also expect that many her Black Hills neighbors never had a chance to witness her on-stage performances that earned Johanna Meier world-wide acclaim.

Johanna Meier excerpt from Tristan and Isolde

Life on the prairie

2008-11-28T03:02:00.006-07:00

Almost 20 years ago, we had the great pleasure of first setting foot inside the Matthews Opera House in Spearfish. It was a special occasion, because South Dakota Public Broadcasting had multiple cameras and recorders in the building and was preparing to capture the performances of several cowboy poets and musicians.

The event was particularly memorable for Karen and me, because that's when we were first introduced to songwriter/performer Chuck Suchy. After being mesmerized by his songwriting and obvious talent as a guitar picker and singer, we bought one of his CDs. Thus began our long-standing fondness for the music of Suchy, who continues his day job as a working farmer on a spread south of Mandan, North Dakota.

When Karen and I moved to Mississippi in 1993 and then to Pennsylvania in 2001, we often turned to the music of Chuck Suchy to help us feel a bit closer to our high plains roots. His songs -- from West Dakota Breezes and Dreams to Saturday Night at the Hall -- vividly portray the rural lifestyle of America's heartland. Frankly, those frequent fixes of Suchy melodies helped lure us back to South Dakota in retirement.

The entire Suchy family seems endowed with great musical talent, and those talents are contained in many of Chuck's early recordings. His wife Linda and kids Andra and Ben are heard on many of them.

We were delighted to see that Chuck has appeared on Garrison Keillor's Prairie Home Companion radio program in recent years, as has his daughter Andra. We're lobbying to lure him back to the Black Hills for a performance one of these days. We're certain he'd win over even more fans.

Ghosts of Rose Hill

2008-11-15T23:08:00.013-07:00

Was it a coincidence that Linfred Schuttler’s presentation the “Ghosts of Rose Hill’ was given just a couple of weeks after Halloween? We think not!

Despite mystical occurrences between Halloween and the November 11th meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society (SAHS), a fair-sized group of folks turned out for the ghostly meeting at the Spearfish Senior Citizens Center. And perhaps that interim “mysticism” was just the general election!

No stranger to SAHS – or to Spearfish (he’s been here more than 62 years!) – Linfred Schuttler offered a straightforward, slightly tongue-in-cheek, presentation about many unusual circumstances surrounding burials in Rose Hill Cemetery.

Rose Hill sits atop a hill adjacent to the city campground in south Spearfish. It was platted and opened in 1877, even though there may already have been bodies buried there. Linfred shared a litany of stories about deaths and burials in Spearfish during the late 1800s – and noted that there are no markings for many of those graves, and that “perhaps only their ghosts know” where the bodies are buried.

But we do know where the body of one Levi Blizzard lies, because it is identified by both an old wooden marker and a newer metal marker of the International Order of Odd Fellows. And while we know of Blizzard’s demise in November of 1876 – and we know of no ghosts -- no one seems to be able to explain the bouquet of flowers that mysteriously appear on his gravestone every Memorial Day.

Schuttler recounted the decision made in 1884 that no distinction was ever to be made between Union soldiers and Confederate soldiers buried at the cemetery. That was some seven years after a David Abernathy and Deputy Sheriff David Wilson were killed about 10 miles west of Spearfish, while in pursuit of thieves who had stolen Abernathy’s wagon. Settlers en route to Spearfish found their bodies and brought them back to town. They were buried at Rose Hill. As it turns out, Abernathy – who had fought for the Confederacy during the “war between the states” – was the first Civil War veteran buried in the cemetery. We don't know where their plots are, but we do know that from Rose Hill, their ghosts would have a splendid view, as seen in the photo above left.

There was also the touching story about a two-year-old boy whose family lived in a house just beneath the “Normal School” in Spearfish. The lad was bitten by a rattlesnake, but there was no immediate medical attention available, so he was given a shot of whiskey. Schuttler noted that the boy survived this incident, only to die – along with his two brother – of diphtheria two months later.

Weaving stories of crime, passion, and heartache, Schuttler divulged numerous stories that elicited expressions of surprise and delight from the audience.

Among them, the story of Keating and Davis, two men found hanging from a tree about two miles north of town along Spearfish Creek. The two had operated a rather successful butcher shop in Deadwood…..that is, until an area rancher found them dressing out one of his steers!
“No law. No fuss. No story….just two burials,” quipped Schuttler.

For all the light-hearted talk of ghosts as Rose Hill, a casual November afternoon visit to the cemetery divulged only beautiful panoramas and an opportunity commune with deer that populate the grounds this time of year; witness this fellow near a tombstone in the southeast part of Rose Hill.

To see a few candid photographs from the Rose Hill Cemetery presentation, visit our History Gallery. The next Spearfish Area Historical Society meeting will be Tuesday, December 2, when Johanna Meier will open her famous doll house during the day, followed by a presentation that evening at 7:30 at the Senior Citizens Center.

Remembering "Slim"

2008-11-10T20:13:00.001-07:00

He was a hero, and we didn’t know it. And I doubt he ever considered himself a hero – but isn’t humility a common trait among the truly heroic?

I didn’t know him well, but Warren Beamish and his wife Gladys were good friends with our family.

He loved horses and would perform with his horses and as a rodeo clown in communities around western Nebraska and the surrounding region.

Warren grew up in Michigan during the Depression years of the ‘30s. It was there that he became acquainted with my uncle Alex Miller and decided to accompany Alex back to Chadron, Nebraska. He was a “hired hand” for my grandfather Bill Maiden, among other jobs he had over the years. In 1942, Warren married Gladys Warren.

In World War II, like so many other young men, he went into the Army and was shipped overseas. It was in July 1943, when – as part of the American invasion of Sicily – that “Sergeant” Beamish and one other soldier helped open up enemy beaches for an Allied assault.

Official Army records indicate that “…on 10 July 1943…a few minutes after landing…Staff Sergeant Beamish, then a Sergeant and squad leader, volunteered to accompany an army officer and, under fire from enemy guns, succeeded in moving inland, assaulting a gun position and pill box which was being manned by six Italian soldiers.”

After opening up a landing site, they then proceeded up the beach, capturing another 25 Italian soldiers manning 20 millimeter and 50 caliber guns. Their actions opened the beach for 500 yards, allowing a successful assault – the largest such amphibious assault of its kind up to that time of the war.

For his “extraordinary heroism” during this major Allied invasion, Staff Sergeant Warren W. Beamish was awarded the Distinguished Service Cross, the highest combat medal awarded by the United States military – second only to the Medal of Honor. Read the text of the award.

Who knew? Like so many of his era, Warren came home from the war and – according to his wife Gladys – never talked about his war-time exploits. He merely got on with his life in Chadron, Nebraska. He and Gladys raised two children, Bill and Bonnie.

Warren "Slim" Beamish died on July 21, 1998. He was 80 years old. We've compiled a few photos to help tell this story.

It was Warren Beamish and others like him who won that war. Winning for us a way of life that most of the rest of the world can only dream of enjoying. It is right that we should honor him and others who've fought for our country.

Thanks, Slim. Belatedly, but with much admiration.

Griffith wins carving

2008-10-29T18:24:00.006-06:00

During a late October (10/29) luncheon recognizing volunteers at the Western Heritage Cultural Center in Spearfish, a beautiful moose antler carving created by Tony Ramer was presented to Nyla Griffith of Deadwood. Her winning raffle ticket was selected on October 18th as part of a fundraiser for the center.

Ramer, at left in this photo, grew up in North Dakota but now lives in Custer. He has been carving antlers since he was a young boy and has been making a living at it since 1981. This piece was inspired by a Charles Russell water color entitled “A Moment of Great Peril in a Cowboy’s Career.”

It was a pleasant surprise for Griffith, who’s been heavy on the campaign trail as a legislative candidate for the District #31 South Dakota State Senate seat. The campaign is down to less than a week. She is shown here with her husband, Tom. They are owners of TDG Communications in Deadwood.

Many of the more than 40 volunteers at the High Plains Western Heritage Center attended the luncheon – and they were given a heartfelt thanks by center Executive Director Peggy Ables.

In a previously posted photo gallery, we included a few candid shots taken around the museum when the Spearfish Area Historical Society met there last year. Just follow this link and scroll down.

The rising star of Lead, South Dakota

2008-10-14T10:28:00.011-06:00

Few of us are without ancestors who had some relationship with railroading. Either they worked for the railroad, traveled by rail, or shipped cattle, timber or grain by rail.

Admittedly, the mystique of railroading afflicts some of us more than others. I attribute my interest to my father, who spent most of his working life as a machinist at the Chicago & Northwestern Railway roundhouse in Chadron, Nebraska.

So when Wayne Paananen appeared before a gathering of the Lawrence County (SD) Historical Society at Lewie's in Lead earlier this month to talk about the renovation of the old Black Hills and Fort Pierre roundhouse, I was hooked.

Like many folks, I have driven by the old structure many times without recognizing what it was. Nestled atop Lead next door to the Golden Hills Inn and Convention Center, it’s easy to miss it. Too, it’s a considerably smaller roundhouse than the full turntable roundhouse that served as the economic hub of Chadron for nearly a century.

The Lead roundhouse served the Black Hills and Fort Pierre Railroad from about 1901 to 1930, providing six bays in which engines and other rolling stock could be repaired and maintained. The narrow gauge line was an important part of early 20th century transportation in the northern Black Hills – particularly for Homestake Mine.

We understand the structure was destined to be demolished in 1999, but that’s when it was bought by Stan Adelstein of Rapid City, who apparently hoped the structure could be renovated and preserved as an historical landmark. He eventually sold it to Dr. Duane and Phyllis Sander of Brookings. Phyllis was born and raised in Lead. Duane was one of the founders of Daktronics in Brookings.

Lots of folks have been involved in this major renovation, which was to have been completed by June of 2008. Paananen says it’s taking longer than expected, and that the new owners and construction people want to “get it right.” Eventually, there’ll be several businesses in the building, including a restaurant, gift shops, a coffee shop, and space for artists.

Highlight of the October historical society tour was a sneak preview of the “Living Map” project developed and promoted by Paananen. Visit this link to our Roundhouse Gallery; it provides a few views of the renovated building and the multi-media presentation given by Paananen.

We’ve long thought that Lead has some opportunities to re-create itself following the closing of the Homestake Mine. The Deep Underground Science and Engineering Laboratory project was a harbinger of things to come. The opening of the old Lead Roundhouse in the coming months will be another, and it promises to be another new feather in the hat of Lead.

Glints of Galena

2008-10-13T17:54:00.004-06:00

Silver was the stuff of fortunes – and it lured many a miner to the hills and valleys south of Deadwood late in the 19th century. Dozens of silver mines and claims dotted the area around Galena, one of many small communities that thrived and then died.

But Galena has never really allowed last rites to be given, and the community has taken pride in its historic past and its wilderness beauty.

Jeri Fahrni and Marilyn Schwaner are among Galena locals who are members of the Galena Historical Society. They shared dozens of pictures and intriguing stories about Galena during “Glints of Galena,” the October program of the Spearfish Area Historical Society. The society gathers monthly at the Spearfish Senior Citizens Center.

Marilyn and Jeri were kind enough to allow us to display several of the photographs in our History Gallery.

Three miners, Frank Cochrane, William Stillwell and Pat Donegan are cited as starting the Sitting Bull Mine a ways down stream from what is now Galena. The community virtually exploded with prospectors; mills and smelters popped up around the area, which still contains remnants of structures and artifacts from the boom era.

Galena once sported two churches, several saloons, a mercantile, restaurants, boarding houses, a newspaper, and a drugstore. Of course, the local school – built in 1882 – was the center of the community for many years, and the structure still stands.

The Galena Historical Society sponsors an annual walk through the historic village. The next one is slated for June 2009.

The next SAHS program will be Ghosts of Rose Hill Cemetery with Linfred Schuttler on November 11th.

Yesteryear in Tinton

2008-09-09T16:40:00.016-06:00

Jessie Schultz Williams, Chuck Schultz, and Joann Follette spent considerable time growing up in the small mining town of Tinton, nestled near Cement Ridge along the Wyoming-South Dakota border. And "Potato Creek Johnny" Perrett, shown in the photograph here, was one of the memorable characters they recalled as they told about growing up in Tinton. Johnny had a particularly colorful career, laying claim--albeit dubiously--to the largest piece of gold found in the Black Hills. But Johnny was only one of many storied folks imbedded in the lore and history of Tinton -- an all-but-abandoned village west of Spearfish Canyon.

Tales about “Life in Tinton” were showcased during a meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society at the Senior Citizen’s Center in Spearfish last Tuesday, September 2nd.

A variety of ores were mined in Tinton over the years – reportedly, gold, tin, and tantalum, among others. It’s also interesting, according to Chuck Schultz, that some of the early settlers wanted to lure tourists to Tinton – a formidable task for a community so isolated in the northern Black Hills.

Nonetheless, at its peak, Tinton boasted a community hall, filling station, post office, a big mill, and a two-room school, along with several dwellings. Schultz remembers that Tinton’s population was nominally about 300 persons, but there may have been as many as 500. Electricity was unreliable, and refrigeration was dependent upon ice collected in the winter and stored in sawdust cellars throughout the year.

Jessie Williams shared much about her school years, which were enjoyable and productive despite the lack of technology and many of the resources enjoyed by city schools and most schools today. Several old pictures of school activities – including a basketball team – were displayed on a large video screen for the audience.

“I think most everyone who went to school in Tinton came out all right,” she said.

Our thanks to the presenters for allowing us to share a few of their many pictures of Tinton. We’re including other information about Tinton as we’re able to assemble it.

The next meeting of the Spearfish Area Historical Society will focus on another old northern Hills town – Galena. It’s scheduled for 7:30 p.m., Tuesday, October 7th, at the Spearfish Senior Citizens Center. Guests are invited.

On the mend

2008-09-05T12:01:00.001-06:00

Since retiring to the beautiful northern Black Hills region of South Dakota, we’ve become acquainted with many other retirees. Among these new-found friends are Roger and Fran Whorton, who grew up near Waterloo, Iowa, and were wed in 1966.

Roger served a stint in the Marine Corps and ended up as a career officer in the U.S. Coast Guard as a pilot. He served in a variety of interesting assignments, including one as Commanding Officer of the Coast Guard Air Station at Barber's Point in Hawaii. They have three grown children. Roger retired as a Captain in 2002, and he and Fran moved to Spearfish.

In the few years that we’ve known them, the Whortons have had their world altered considerably, due to a life-changing health condition. Roger has reflected upon their experience, and he's been kind enough share it with the Black Hills Journal. That's Roger pictured above -- on the mend -- and showing a renewed appreciation for health. He cites the role that stress can play in recovery, or lack thereof, especially when induced by burgeoning costs for major surgery.

In the final of three installments, Roger Whorton pens another episode of...

A HEART'S STORY

(Part 3)

by Roger Whorton

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Home is the place to recover. Hospitals do a great job at taking patients through the critical times, when you are helpless and need treatment. But danger lurks in the form of hospital infections and illnesses, especially after an operation. If I knew then what I know now about hospital infections! (Read more...)

The guys in the black tee shirts

2008-08-26T19:00:00.002-06:00

Roger served a stint in the Marine Corps and ended up as a career officer in the U.S. Coast Guard as a pilot. He served in a variety of interesting assignments, including one as Commanding Officer of the Coast Guard Air Station at Barber's Point in Hawaii. They have three grown children. Roger retired as a Captain in 2002, and he and Fran moved to Spearfish.

In the few years that we’ve known them, the Whortons have had their world altered considerably, due to a life-changing health condition. Roger has reflected upon their experience, and he's been kind enough share it with the Black Hills Journal. That's Roger at left, a scooper of snow and seemingly fit as a fiddle. As we learned in the last installment of his story, Roger had done all the "right" things -- from a healthy diet to regular and frequent strenuous exercise. So, what happened?

In the second of three installments over the next few weeks, Roger Whorton writes - - -

A HEART'S STORY

(Part 2)

by Roger Whorton

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The doctors said I needed quadruple bypass surgery, and it was scheduled for ten days later, on Monday, May 12th.. My wife and I arrived very early in the morning. I remember very little of the day. After briefly talking with some administrative people, I was gowned and an IV was started. I met the anesthesiologist briefly, and had a short conversation with him. Someone was shaving my arms and legs, and then I was out—really out.

The next thing I foggily recall was that it was about 0330 the next morning and I was with two guys in black tee shirts. (Read more...)

All is well with the world

2008-08-22T12:01:00.005-06:00

Roger served a stint in the Marine Corps and ended up as a career officer in the U.S. Coast Guard as a pilot. He served in a variety of interesting assignments, including one as Commanding Officer of the Coast Guard Air Station at Barber's Point in Hawaii. They have three grown children. Roger retired as a Captain in 2002, and he and Fran moved to Spearfish.

In the few years that we’ve known them, the Whortons have had their world altered considerably, due to a life-changing health condition. Roger has reflected upon their experience, and he's been kind enough share it with the Black Hills Journal. That's Fran and Roger in the photo, enjoying their grandchildren before learning about Roger's condition.

In the first of three installments over the next few weeks, Roger Whorton writes...

A HEART'S STORY

(Part 1)

by Roger Whorton

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Mid-April of this year, 2008, I appeared to be a picture of health at 61 years old. Trim and active, I had never smoked, carefully watched my diet, and had exercised all my life. A month later, I had open-heart surgery and a quadruple Coronary Artery Bypass Graft (CABG).

How did things change so rapidly? (Read more...)

Re-discovering Roughlock Falls

2008-08-19T12:01:00.012-06:00

A couple of weeks ago, we went on a photo shoot up Spearfish Canyon with Tom Griffith of TDG Communications of Deadwood. We were looking for a scenic spot that exemplifies the beauty of the northern Black Hills. Tom suggested Roughlock Falls.

My first choice would have been Spearfish Falls, or perhaps even Bridal Veil Falls. Having visited Roughlock a few times over the years, I felt it lagged far behind the beauty of the other falls. I knew that the South Dakota Game Fish and Parks folks had done some work out there recently, but I’d not seen Roughlock in probably 18 months.

Wow! Kudos to the GF&P Department for planning and developing this location in a tasteful and durable way. I think it is a powerful enhancement for Roughlock Falls, and it helps visitors enjoy this captivating area just west of Savoy.

Game, Fish & Parks spent about $600,000 on revitalizing the area around the falls. They’ve added a well-constructed walkway, new restrooms, and numerous picnic tables. Their signage does an excellent job of telling the history of the area and revealing how Roughlock got its unusual name. GF&P deserves a pat on the back. They did a first-class job.

We were so impressed after our visit there with Tom, that we drove back the next day, accompanied by Roger and Fran Whorton of Spearfish. They’re another couple of relatively-new retirees to the northern Hills, and I think it’s safe to say they were equally impressed with the site. We enjoyed a tasty picnic lunch after hiking the area and snapping a few pictures.

By the way, Roger and Fran are celebrating their 42nd wedding anniversary this week. They’re a delightful couple who’ve become good friends. They’re also members of our newly-formed pinochle group, which I think is called the Spearfish Area Pinochle Society (SAPS). We gotta change that name.

As you have occasion to drive up Spearfish Canyon on Highway 14A, which is a National Scenic Byway, I encourage you to swing over to visit Roughlock Falls. After driving south out of Spearfish for about 12 miles, you'll reach Savoy. Staying on 14A to the left, you can navigate to Cheyenne Crossing (and that's another story!) or you can turn right -- which is west -- and go about one mile to Roughlock Falls. You might want to take a look at the Game, Fish and Parks website to gain some Roughlock Falls information, so you’ll have a bit of background about what’s there and its history. We've also added a few Roughlock Falls photos to our Spearfish Canyon photo gallery that we started last winter.

The magnificent beauty in and around Spearfish Canyon is another reason so many folks choose the Black Hills of South Dakota for retirement.

AT&T: For Sale

2008-08-18T20:00:00.005-06:00

“Tubular, Man!” I’m not quite sure what the expression meant, but I think it was a phrase from Hippydom.

Anything but a Hippie, good friend Al Setera has gone tubular – vacuum tubular!

Last winter, Al showed me a collection of tubes and a marvelous old “Test-O-Matic” tube checker that he had acquired some years ago. If it had been placed inside of the local hardware store, I’d have thought I’d been “transported” to the 1950s. That was when all our electronic gadgets (radios, the few television sets around, and a declining number of phonographs) used vacuum tubes to make them work.

When I first peered at Al’s unit, my mouth watered. When he turned on its light, I started to shiver. When he opened the drawers to the unit, I felt all was right with the world – it was making sense. I was transported to an era when we understood a little bit more about how things work.

I don’t recall all the details about how Al happened upon this collector’s item, but I do know the testers and tubes once belonged to a ham radio operator in Iowa who is now deceased. The ham operator's son didn't want to deal with it, and Al, who was a friend of the family, ended up with the items. I was caught off guard when Al said he’d like to find a new owner for them. Once I reconciled myself to the reality that Karen would sooner give up her bear collection (ain’t gonna happen in this lifetime) than let me populate my radio room with vacuum devices that don’t pick up dust from the carpet, I agreed to help Al find a new home for these items.

The tube tester is an original Shell “Test-O-Matic” Model S-10, probably built out on Utica Avenue in Brooklyn back in the 1950s. It looks just like the ones that used to adorn hardware stores, grocery stores, and other retail businesses who understood that the world ran on electrons!

If this thing of beauty were not enough, Al told me that he had tubes - lots of tubes - that he’s willing to dispose of.
And then there’s the Mercury portable tube tester – it’s a Model 1100 – manufactured by Mercury Electronics Corporation in Mineola, New York. It’s one of those handy “kit”-type units that folds together in a carrying case that was all the rage for home radio repairmen and amateurs who couldn’t live without them.

I keep thinking Al may change his mind about selling these collector’s items. Just as I keep hoping Karen may relent on space in our basement. Fat chances both! So, until then, I’ve committed to fielding any e-mails from folks who might be interested in relieving Al of his burden. Salvos of interest should be aimed at: galeymedia@gmail.com

A cool evening in Belle

2008-07-04T01:23:00.016-06:00

"Where's the best place to take pictures of the fireworks," Riley asked me.

"Dunno, but I drive over and park by the Dairy Queen," I said.

So went my brief conversation with an acquaintance at the Belle Fourche Roundup Thursday night (7/3/08) during the rodeo. Karen and I slipped out early to perhaps get a treat and take some pictures of the fireworks on our way back to Spearfish.

So we wound our way out of the grandstand well before the final event -- bull riding -- had concluded and made our way to my pickup. This was a good plan, I thought.

Double disappointment. Dairy Queen was closed by the time we arrived; and we discovered two lighted communications towers were between us and the fireworks. I also started having pangs of frustration that we'd probably missed the most exciting part of the rodeo. My spirits were dashed, but I was determined to take a few photos anyway. And I'm glad I did. I rather liked the unusual tower backlighting.

All and all, it ended up being a delightfully cool evening for a good rodeo performance, and the fireworks display was just as I'd remembered from years gone by -- outstanding! But we still don't know how the bull riding came out.

Western Heritage Center is a gem

2008-05-07T23:42:00.007-06:00

For history buffs visiting the Black Hills region, the High Plains Western Heritage Center is a “must see” on their itineraries.

This gem, nestled on a hill overlooking Spearfish in the beautiful northern Black Hills, is a 40-acre site boasting a marvelous building that captures the spirit of the old west in so many ways!

It was very fitting for the Spearfish Area Historical Society to round out its 2007-08 year with a visit to the Western Heritage Center and enjoy the hospitality offered by center director Peggy Ables and her small but able staff. After a short society business meeting in the 200-seat auditorium, Peggy made introductory remarks and then – assisted by volunteer Bill Fuller – provided an excellent tour through the 17,000 square feet facility.

As one who has visited the Western Heritage Center many times, I find something new each time I walk through the door. It’s a wonderful resource that is emerging as a major historical center across a 5-state region. We’ve assembled a few photos to help whet your appetite about the marvelous facility. For more information, we encourage you to take the virtual tour offered on their web site.

Better yet, hop in your car and head for Spearfish, taking Exit 14 toward the southwest. You’ll find the High Plains Western Heritage Center about a mile up – what else? – Heritage Drive. And prepare to have a terrific time!

Some people just "Vanished"!

2008-04-24T16:54:00.013-06:00

It’s hard to believe that innocent citizens could be swept from their homes in the middle of the night and tossed in jail…..then transferred to a “detention camp” and held for months – even years – as “prisoners of war.” But it happened during World War II all across the United States.

The Alien and Sedition Act of 1798 had been enacted 140 years earlier, at the end of the American Revolution. It was later modified and only its “Alien Enemies” provision remained. But after the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor, heightened fear broke out across the United States, and there was great suspicion that aliens – even people who just “looked” to be an aliens – might be enemy spies or even saboteurs.

Because of their obvious difference in physical appearance, oriental persons were easy targets. It’s estimated that more than 120,000 Japanese-Americans were interned under the Alien Enemies Act during World War II. Most of the internees, probably about 80 percent, were U.S. citizens.

Less well known is the fact that between 11,000 to 15,000 German-Americans were whisked off to detention camps during World War II. Their story has been little known, but thanks to an exhibit aboard a reconditioned bus called the BUS-eum, we’re finally getting a glimpse of this frightening era in American history. Entitled Vanished, the exhibit uses posters, photographs, and old films to help tell the story. German-Americans were interned in camps all across the country. The nearest to our part of the world was Camp Lincoln, located near Bismarck, North Dakota.

I first learned of the exhibit earlier this week, while it was traversing the state. Alas, before the bus could make it to Spearfish, a cracked engine cylinder put the vehicle out of business. Fortunately, the exhibit was shipped on to Black Hills State University, where it was exhibited for a few hours today in the Student Center.

The Director of the exhibit (and bus driver) is Iowan Michael Luick-Thrams, whose passion for the subject is obvious. He told our small assemblage at BHSU, that the Bus-eum has visited 1,015 communities across the country and has been seen by more than 100,000 people.

Vanished tells another sad but important story in the history of our country. While tens of thousands of internees of World War II thought it couldn’t happen to them, we are left wondering: could such a thing happen today?

A good question….and this exhibit helps us better understand this chapter of U. S. history. If you’re interested in learning more, I’d recommend visiting the Vanished web site. An even better site, in my opinion, is that of the German-American Internee Coalition. To get to that web site, just click on GAIC.

As a grandchild of German-Russian immigrants, I appreciate the passion brought to this project, and I support efforts to learn more and better understand the circumstances surrounding these internments. Knowing our history will always stand us in good stead.

And while it is appropriate for the GAIC to try to get the U.S. government to “review and acknowledge” the violation of civil rights perpetrated on Japanese-Americans, German-Americans, and others, let’s hope it stops there. Document this experience. Understand it. Never forget it. But avoid the pervasive victimization mentality that cloaks much of our country and stop short of seeking reparations.

Better that we focus our vigilance upon open government and fight to ensure that civil rights of all citizens are doggedly protected. We should learn from the past, act in the present, and focus on the future.

Free "Vanished" Exhibit at BHSU

2008-04-23T18:22:00.008-06:00

We’re a bit late in posting this item, but it appears to be well worth pursuing for people who live in the northern Black Hills.

Most of us are aware that many Japanese-Americans were interned in camps across the country during World War II.

Less well known is that fact that the U.S. Government interned some 15,000 German-American civilians, including citizens and 4,058 Latin-American Germans brought here and later exchanged for Nazi-held American citizens. Perhaps the least known chapter of American WWII history, its legacy has implications for today. Housed in a school bus converted into a mobile museum with its own 21-seat theater, VANISHED illustrates this unknown story through narrative texts, artifacts and multi-media.

The exhibit will be in Spearfish – near the Black Hills State University Student Center, I believe – from 10 a.m. to 1p.m., tomorrow (Thursday, April 24th). It’s open to the public free of charge.

Our April Snowfall

2008-04-08T16:30:00.006-06:00

Life in the Black Hills of South Dakota provides a wonderful variety of weather and scenery. It seems we've been blessed with April storms for each of the past three winters -- and 2008 was no expection. Pictured here is a holding pond on Spearfish Creek just southeast of Savoy. The April 5-6 snowfall left several inches throughout the northern hills, and a Sunday morning drive up Spearfish Canyon provided some delightful sights and a few good photos.

Higbee tells about Fayette Cook

2008-04-02T23:06:00.011-06:00

Fayette Cook was pretty remarkable fellow. He’s often thought of as the first President of Black Hills State University, but the fact it is – he wasn’t.

Hired in 1885 as a “Principal” for the Spearfish normal college – a teacher training institution – Cook rescued the school from the wretched state of affairs left by his predecessor, M. Van Buren Baker.

You thought Deadwood had some rough characters – how about this Van Buren Baker guy.

He came from back east and lasted less than a year on the job. Generally regarded as a gambler, a womanizer, and probably an embezzler, Baker went back East to Pennsylvania, where he headed another normal school, but was soon convicted of murdering his wife and mother-in-law in a bloody axe crime.

So starts the story of Fayette Cook and the early years of what we know as Black Hills State University. It’s a spellbinding story that was told colorfully by Spearfish historian Paul Higbee during the April meeting (4/1/08) of the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

Higbee told how the 34-year-old Cook had never even heard of Spearfish when he received a letter in 1885 offering him the position of “Principal” at the new normal school. Although he at first declined, Cook later accepted the job and took a train from his home near Rochester, Minnesota to Chadron, Nebraska – then taking a stage to Spearfish.

Higbee noted that Cook’s arrival in Spearfish was surely disappointing to him. The single normal school building was, Cook said, “the poorest excuse for a schoolhouse.” Nonetheless, he went to work in an effort to create a “model school” where students could practice their teaching. The laboratory school became an integral part of the college and the community.

Cook was fond of agriculture and had a passion for education. He was plain-speaking and straightforward, and he didn’t think all students could be teachers. Some simply didn’t have the charisma, the moral fiber, or the personality for it.

In demonstrating the sharp contrast between modern education and the early days of the normal school, Higbee shared the story of how a disgruntled student went to Cook’s office, challenged him to a fistfight, and Cook – who readily obliged the student – was thoroughly “thrashed” in the altercation.

Through the years, the school strengthened its academic credentials and enjoyed a growing enrollment. Cook had rightly surmised that the beautiful environment of the northern Black Hills would be an attraction for many students. The school also enjoyed something of a building boom. Cook Hall and Winona Cook Hall (named for his wife) were among the structures built with funds obtained during Cook’s tenure as President.

Perhaps the toughest times for President Cook were the years of 1918-19, when the horrible flu pandemic hit the United States and numerous countries around the globe. Higbee expressed the belief that President Cooks decision to temporarily close the school likely contained the disease and saved many lives.

Higbee's audience at the historical society meeting was full of folks with remembrances of their years -- or their parents years -- at the old normal school in Spearfish.

Fayette Cook stepped down as President in 1919. Higbee’s presentation observed that Cook was very concerned about who his successor would be, and went so far as inviting the newly selected president, Dr. Woodburn from Northern State, to spend his first days in Spearfish at the Cook home. Out of this close-up inspection of his successor, Cook became an ardent supporter of President Woodburn.

Just a few years later, in 1922, Fayette Cook died in Spearfish at the age of 72.

Our thanks to Corrine Hansen and the folks at Black Hills State University for providing the photograph of Fayette Cook (above right). If you'd like to see more pictures and information, click on this link to historical society photos.

No April Fool's Joke!

2008-04-01T12:47:00.005-06:00

One of the joys of living in the Black Hills region is the amazing scenery and the friendly people. Having deer wander into the neighborhood -- hopefully not too often -- makes it seem like we're almost living in the woods!

This morning (4/1/1), however, we had a new experience, when we spotted some very big animal prints out in the back yard. We seldom have dogs running loose in this area, although we do have lots of deer. Upon closer examination, it was apparent that these prints, which measured six inches across and eight inches in length, belonged either to a big dog or a mountain lion. The photograph on the left is shown with my ballpoint pen included to illustrate the relative size of the animal track.

I shared my photographs with a biologist at the U.S. Forest Service office. He indicated that the tracks could very well have been from a mountain lion -- but the pictures were inconclusive. Upon returning to our Yellowstone Place neighborhood in north Spearfish, I spotted two police officers walking into the street from the yards behind our house. I asked if they'd been investigating the tracks -- and what they thought.

There was no doubt in their minds that the prints were made by mountain lions.

We enjoy our environment. And this bit of news provided the neighborhood with a bit of excitement; however, we've decided it's an excitement that we'd just as soon not experience very often.

A Community Effort -- Well Done!

2008-03-28T20:25:00.011-06:00

The good folks of Belle Fourche have done it again!

The Center of the Nation Concert Association brought in another top-flight entertainment act when they booked Riders in the Sky. Scheduling an extra matinee performance allowed for adequate seating at both shows, ensuring that everyone got to see these great entertainers.

The Belle Fourche Area Community Center is a great facility for these shows.

Of course, we know things like this don’t “just happen.” It’s the product of good planning and lots of hard work. Near the top of that list has to be Barry Pitt, President of the Board of Directors. As witnessed this week, Barry wears lots of other hats besides that little black one he’s seldom without. Lighting guy. Sound guy. Emcee. And more.

I suspect there’s a very long list of hard workers who make this series happen. People like Lorraine Klingler, Mary Wendt, B.B. Arbuckle, Michelle Deyo-Amende, Bill Kunerth, Vi Shaw, Norma Peterson, Margaret Logan, Connie Husband, Marry Ellen Warren, Marilyn baker, Betty Helmer, Joan Jewett, Audrey Wiley, and others. Thanks to each of you.

There are lots of sponsors and contributors, too. They’re all to be congratulated.

And just when we thought there might be a long break – news that the Wood’s Tea Company is on the docket for Tuesday, April 8th at 7:30 p.m. We understand this acoustic group from Vermont has met tragedy over the past 24 months. One of their members died as the result of a motorcycle accident; then last year, the group’s founder died of a heart attack.

Nonetheless, the surviving members have brought on board some other great talent, and they’ve resumed their nationwide tour with great bluegrass, sea shanties, American folk music and even some Celtic tunes.

And for their show in Belle Fourche on April 8th, they’ll be joined by lovely Patti Casey, a vocalist and songwriter who’s appeared in folk and music festivals across the country and has also appeared on Garrison Keillor’s Prairie Home Companion.

Kudos to Belle Fourche for continuing to provide area residents with some great entertainment. We understand they’re putting the finishing touches on a great schedule for next year – including the Jimmy Dorsey Orchestra.

And don’t miss the Wood’s Tea Company on April 8th!

Bravo Adams Museum & House!

2008-03-22T22:50:00.005-06:00

Say “Deadwood” in most places across this country or around the world, and folks are likely to immediately think of the rip-roarin’ days of the Old West, when speculators from everywhere came to make their fortunes in the tough little mining town featured in the HBO series of the same name.

Say “Adams Museum & House,” and those same people won’t have a clue what you’re talking about! Well, perhaps they might, since the museum is continuing to grow as a marvelous resource for Deadwood and for anyone who wants to know more about the history of the northern Black Hills and the Old West. They’re very well known in the immediate area, and I suspect the Adams Museum and House will continue to gain popularity among tourists and serious historical researchers.

We enjoyed another benefit of membership in the Adams Museum this week – a wonderful classical guitar concert performed by William Feasley. His youthful appearance belies a seasoned talent who is at ease with his audience and capable of mesmerizing all with his skillful precision on the guitar...and his quick smile! His web site offers a brief interlude of his musical talent, as well as additional information about this world recognized classical guitarist.

Feasley's performance before a packed house at the Adams Museum was a splendid event.

Congratulations to Mary Kopco and her staff for bringing Feasley to us. Luring such events is a feather in the hat of the Adams Museum, and it’s another of the growing list of reasons why those of us who chose to live in the northern Black Hills know we made the right decision!

Ed Murrow would be proud

2008-03-22T22:10:00.000-06:00

Living virtually “over the hill” from historic Deadwood, South Dakota, Karen and I have visited that colorful community many times. Its scenic setting in the northern Black Hills makes the town a popular tourist destination, as does its raucous gold rush history. Of course, Deadwood also heavily promotes its present-day casino entertainment, too.

Nonetheless, I’ve never watched a full episode of HBO’s much-heralded TV series, Deadwood.

I must confess, I couldn’t get beyond the filthy language used gratuitously throughout the single episode to which I was exposed. How unfortunate that many folks like myself missed the series; on the other hand, knowing that liberal license was taken with authentic language of the period, I fear the whole series strayed quite far from reality. A friend suggested that perhaps I should be less prudish. After more than 24 years of exposure to "salty language" in the Navy, I've never thought of myself as a prude. Perhaps HBO could produce a good historical drama without incessant gutter language? Except for PBS, there aren’t a lot of folks doing that kind of quality programming anymore.

Well, now they’ve gone and done it! HBO this month unveiled what appears to be a great series, John Adams, chronicling the lives of our second U.S. president, John Adams, and his remarkable wife, Abigail. The seven-part story is based upon the Pulitzer-prize winning book authored by David McCullough. The series premiered March 16th and subsequent episodes will air Sunday evenings during the rest of March and into April. I’ve watched the first two episodes, and I’m hooked.

The story is well told, finely acted, and leaves you wanting more. I’ve just visited the HBO John Adams web site, and before the day is over, I’ll visit our local library and hope that they have a copy of McCullough’s book.

Some reviewers have been critical of actor Paul Giamatti, who portrays Adams, but I found his character very credible. Laura Linney as Abigail Adams was superb. I was quite inspired by the first two episodes of John Adams. I want to revisit colonial history and the founding of our country. I want to know more about the Adams family. My curiosity has been aroused!

Programs like HBO’s John Adams series demonstrate the power of television. And it it comes like a breath of fresh air.

Legendary broadcaster Edward R. Murrow once said about television, “This instrument can teach, it can illuminate; yes, and it can even inspire. But it can do so only to the extent that humans are determined to use it to those ends. Otherwise it is merely wires and lights in a box.”

Congratulations to HBO for bringing us this outstanding series. I think Murrow would be proud of what they’ve done. I know I am.

Seth Bullock - Myths Debunked

2008-03-05T12:51:00.010-07:00

The late pioneer lawman Seth Bullock came alive for an hour or so the other night (3/4/08) – resuscitated in the graphic narratives of historian David Wolff. It was the latest in an outstanding series of speakers lined up by the Spearfish Area Historical Society.

Wolff, an Associate Professor of History at Black Hills State University, spoke to a full house of society members gathered at the Spearfish Senior Citizen’s Center.

Using a wide range of little-known facts about Bullock, Wolff focused on just the first year or two after Seth arrived in Deadwood from Montana in 1876. Bullock had a diversified and colorful career as a miner, politician, merchant, rancher, lawman, and forest supervisor. He was an interesting character, but his story has often been needlessly embellished and exaggerated over the years. Wolff debunked several myths, including Bullock’s role as a lawman (he never killed anyone) and his role in creating Belle Fourche (he never lived there). Read more about Seth Bullock as assembled by the Adams Museum and House in Deadwood, a marvelous resource for old west history.

Wolff was asked about the Seth Bullock ghost that supposedly haunts the Bullock Hotel in Deadwood.

“The real story of the hotel,” said Wolff, “is that Bullock had very little to do with it…he started building a hotel and got his name on the building, and he was done. So if there’s a ghost in there, he’s haunting from his hardware days or his sheriff days. Bullock never ran a hotel.”

Wolff is writing a book about Bullock, whom he described as “a man nobody really liked.” He pointed out that Bullock was appointed to his 9 ½ months as Sheriff and was never elected to anything. In fact, he was defeated twice in back-to-back elections for Sheriff of Deadwood.

After his talk, Wolff visited with many of the folks who had attended the meeting and discussed other aspects of Bullock’s life. We have a few photographs. He expressed a willingness to return next year to talk about other facets of the legendary lawman's life.

Next month, writer Paul Higbee will share some of his research into the creation of Black Hills State University and one of its early presidents, Lafayette Cook. That presentation will be in the Senior Citizen’s Center at 7:30 p.m., Monday, April 1st – no fooling!